Love and The Need for Boundaries

Zeus

     I will be the first to admit I have a ton of embarrassing and affectionate nicknames for Brutus and Grace.  He is "Bru-Tabulous!" "Stripe-a-Dog" "Broo-bus-face" and "Broopies" at times.  Grace is "Roo" "Princess Fluffy" "G-funky!" and "Gracie".  I often refer to them as my fur-babies, or fur-kids.  However, this does NOT mean I forget for a moment that they are dogs.  It does NOT mean I do not love them enough to provide boundaries and guidance to create an environment where they can learn, grow and thrive.

     This is not a halfway house where the primary concern is getting food in their bellies, getting them up to date on vaccinations and having them spayed or neutered.  Those needs are basic and must be met first.  But after that, I love my dogs enough to recognize that they are intelligent, and can get bored or endanger themselves with their curiosity.  I love them enough to see that they have energy that should be directed towards tasks they are suited for.  I love them enough to take the time to study and learn more about them as a species, instead of simply assuming they will like the things I want them to.

     Intelligence is always a double-edged sword.  Everyone I have spoken to always includes "smart" in their laundry list of traits they wish for in a dog.  Sometimes however, we are not prepared for the fact that most dogs use their intelligence for self-serving purposes. At some point, a responsible owner must be willing to step up and say "NO."  An intelligent dog dog not simply need to be walked and petted daily.  They need more than your daily amusement to encourage them to not become destructive.  They need guidance and interaction through training and daily routine to learn what they are allowed and expected to do.  They need boundaries to stop them from harming themselves.

     A healthy dog will have lots of energy.  This means spending time with them actually DOING things where the dog can move around, and must think to come to a satisfactory solution.  Even when playing fetch, which my dog views as a game, there are still rules to be followed.  She must sit to offer me an item to throw.  She can run and play with it, but she is not allowed to put her mouth on my hand, arm or any other part of my body, and she must relinquish the item at my request.  The game is not safe unless there are rules.  The boundaries I impose keep her safe.  If I allow her to hop up and try to grab the toy without paying attention to where her mouth is, she could inadvertently nip or bite someone else or myself when playing.  If it breaks the skin and medical treatment is sought, it is classified as a bite, regardless of lack of intent.  I refuse to endanger my dog that way.  Even when we are burning away excess energy, there are still clear boundaries for what is and what is not allowed.

Maple and Morgan

     Have you ever heard about dogs who chew up nice, new, expensive dog beds as soon as they are left alone with them?  As humans we exclaim our disappointment and frustration, lament about money wasted, and sometimes scold the poor dog.  If we stepped outside the bipedal box, we should only be scolding ourselves.  A dog likes to chew.  It did not pay the money for the bed, so does not know how to value it in those terms.  If you simply put the new dog bed in the crate, or on the floor, and left the dog alone with it, how is it different than any other dog toy you have presented?  If you want a dog to know what to do with a particular object or situation, you need to show it what you want.  Show the dog what you want it to do, multiple times.  When you assign a reward, make sure it's something the dog actually values, not what you think they should like.  Just because YOU label something as "good" or "desirable" does not mean your dog will (and same goes for "bad" things too).  Without knowing at least the basics of canine ethology, it is easy to be misguided. 

     So in short, yes, I love my dogs very much.  But I love them enough to set boundaries for their health and well-being, and always remember that they are only going to view this world as a dog does, not necessarily how I do. 


     For help with your dogs, please feel free to contact me.  pawsthenplay@gmail.com

Dog Training Question: Angry at the Barking Dog

     Earlier today I had a caller ask if it was wrong that when her dog barks, she gets annoyed and yells at the dog to "Hush!".   The caller loves her dog very much, but sometimes the seemingly random barking just pushes her buttons.  So she became frustrated.  When she was talking to me about it, she became upset that she was angry with her dog. 

     I explained to her that most dogs use barking as an alert.  It could be "Hey! I heard a big truck go by! Did you hear that truck go by!" or "That darned squirrel is here again, can you believe it!" or "I'm craving attention, I bet this will make you look!"  Regardless of the reasoning at any given moment, if you want to replace it with another reaction first you have to emphasize that you like something else more, and are willing to give it attention.  Until you have spent enough time to really show and reward your dog for alternate behaviors, it is unfair to expect them to show you different responses.

     If the dog barks to alert to an occurrence and the human yells, this opens the door to misinterpretation.  On one level, if the alert was due to a stressor (loud noise, energetic new dog arriving etc.) and the human yells, the dogs sees the human following it's lead to shout as a reaction.  This can exacerbate the barking.

     The irritation the human projects to the dog changes that human slightly, the hormones and body language.  We may gesture with bolder, faster movements.  The chemical change in the body (adrenaline, catecholamines, blood pressure change) is completely detectable to your dog.  It knows you are stressed too, which can compound and intensify the situation.

     So take a deep breath caller!  If you are unhappy with your results, the easiest way to find relief is to change your approach.  During quiet calm times, take a few moments to re-train a simple command such as sit, or down.  When the dog performs, be sure to reward with plenty of attention.  The more often a behavior is rewarded, the more likely the dog is to repeat it!  So the next time you hear that bark, go back to the simple command.  The calmer you stay about it, the easier it is to convey the message to your dog- "I'd rather you do THIS."

     I saw a post the other day online that was intended for child care but I think it is applicable here: "The more words you use when a [dog] is incorrect or acting out, the less effective you become."

     As always, if you have a question, please contact me directly at PawsThenPlay@gmail.com.  Happy training!



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An Inside Look at Service Dogs

 

     This post was originally shared by an acquaintance in one of the online Service Dog groups I am a part of.  With his permission, I am sharing it with you all.   If it touches you the way it moved me, please forward it on to a friend.

 

 

 Written by Todd Smith.

“You are so lucky!”

We hear it frequently. And it always makes me cringe.

Many times when I am out and about with my wife and her guide dog, people comment about how ‘lucky’ she is. I like to think it is because she is married to me, but after a few years of hearing it, I now know better.

It is because of her guide dog.

The comments are, for the most part, innocently made because of the general public’s misunderstanding of just exactly how being blind can impact a person’s day-to-day living. They do not see the barriers, both physical and mental, which must be overcome in order to do the same things that so-called “normal” people do every day and seemingly take for granted. Things like getting safely from one place to the next, not bumping into other people and things when walking, noticing hazards that can trip someone easily and possibly cause an injury, and even simply walking across the street without being hit by an inattentive driver. These are some of the reasons she has her guide dog with her, not because she is ‘lucky’. And yet we hear it all the time: “You are so lucky that you can have your dog come with you. I wish I could take my dog with me everywhere I go.” They never see the real reason behind having the guide dog; all they see is the dog.

And it is not just guide dog users that hear the ‘lucky’ platitude. The general public sees a person with any kind of disability who uses any kind of service dog and automatically uses THEIR OWN interpretation of THEIR OWN life to come to the conclusion that somehow being able to have the service dog “along for the ride” makes the person with the disability ‘lucky’, because, after all, “you get to take your special friend along everywhere you go”.

The sentiment is genuine, but the understanding is lacking.

So, was my wife ‘lucky’ that she was shaken as an infant, causing her retinas to detach? Was she ‘lucky’ to have the scars on the inside of her brain from the shaking to swell, press on her brain stem, and cause her to have seizures? Is she also ‘lucky’ that the visual cortex in her brain was so damaged by the shaking that there is no type of medical treatment or procedure which can ever allow her to see ‘normally’?

She will never do the simple things that others with ‘normal’ vision do. She adapts by using special programs on her computer to ‘read’ the text on the screen. She adapts by using a portable GPS device because she can’t read the street signs. She adapts by using an Audio Description service when we go to the movies or a live performance play. She adapts by using specially marked knobs on the stove, washer, dryer, dishwasher, and with marked shelves in the pantry and kitchen. She adapts by walking or taking the bus or train because she cannot drive. She adapts when shopping by using a UPC scanner to read what the items are. And yes, she adapts in her travels by using a guide dog because she can’t see you and your shopping cart, automobile, stroller, or anything else. Is that what makes her 'lucky'?

I can honestly tell you that my wife would turn her guide dog into a pet dog in a New York minute if doing so meant that she could see like every 'normal' person and not have to constantly be gawked at, questioned, bullied, and made to feel inferior simply because of the type of mitigating device she uses to try and compensate for her blindness. Would she still be 'lucky' then?

The whole 'lucky' bit comes from those who are dog lovers and would like to be able to take their pet dog places with them. That’s all they see when they see a service dog working for a person with a disability: being able to take a dog places. Their thought patterns are all about them and their own desires; not about what is going on in the real world of those with disabilities. It is kind of like saying this to a person in a wheelchair: "You are so lucky that you get to sit down all the time."

Using a service dog is a lot of work. It’s expensive. It’s time consuming. The logistics are mind numbing. One has to prepare many things in advance just to take a quick trip to the store. The dog has to be brushed, relieved, have all the gear in place, special leashes, and many other things which differ depending on what the dog needs to do. And when it comes to trips that are overnight or longer, there is a lot more which needs to be considered such as food, bowls, clean up supplies, crates or sleeping mats, vaccination records, and other things. At least a wheelchair doesn’t have to be fed, watered, walked or relieved. A white cane won’t get sick in the hotel room and puke on the carpet. But for many service dog handlers, a wheelchair or white cane simply cannot do what needs to be done efficiently or quickly, and many times cannot give the personal confidence and reassurance that handling a properly trained service dog can bring.

When one truly has an understanding of what the day-to-day life of a person with a disability who uses a service dog is, one is in a better position to see that it isn’t ‘luck’; it’s adaptability. It’s overcoming. It’s finding a way to get things done in spite of the challenges one faces. In the simplest term: It’s doing what works best to be as independent as possible. There is no ‘luck’ involved.

Sleeping With the Dogs

     Usually the dogs retire to their room when I begin getting ready for bed, and the last thing I do before I go to my bedroom is close the doors in the dog room and say goodnight to my pups.  Last night I fell asleep on the couch. 

     For my pups, it is a rare treat as my husband does not allow dogs in the bed, thus the only time I can sleep with them is when I choose to snooze in the living room or the dog room.  I love feeling immersed in doggy bodies that are as large as I am.  Grace does not typically like to cuddle, but will sleep under or beside me, usually with her nose buried in my neck or arm pit.  Brutus is a snuggle bug extraordinaire, with Gumby-like properties and patience that allows me to move him where ever I would like him to be, and then hug. 

     I was cuddled cozily with Grace furled tightly in a ball for my pillow, and Brutus stretched out parallel to me, hugged tightly like a living body pillow.   The soft warmth radiated gently around me and slowly my headache dissipated.  Brutus' body heat helped ease my muscles so my sleep was truly restful.  The added bonus (for me) is no dog will move until I wake up.  Even when my husband quietly crept out for work early in the morning, my pillows and heaters stayed in place until I was ready to fully awaken.  He reported that they both were looking at him as he tiptoed by holding his boots, but did not move their bodies.  Bliss.

 

     Sleeping with your dogs at night is a personal choice.  There are those who will speak passionately for or against it.  There are a few key points to consider before you make a decision for your household.

     1. Are you willing to sleep with your dogs when they are full grown?  Some dogs are bed hogs, and others are simply large (mine weigh just over 70 pounds each).  Take into account the sheer amount of space another sleeping being uses.  The gentle tapping of puppy toes during a fierce dream can be cute, but the foot of a lab can be more like a bear cub paw when it is fully grown.  When Brutus was an adolescent (I was single at the time, so he did sleep with me every night) he was an awful kicker!  If you do not have the temperament to be amused by such things, you may want to reconsider sleeping with your dogs.

     2. Is the person sleeping with you also willing to share the bed?  As stated earlier- my husband does not allow dogs in his bed.  Since we are married, and I sleep in that bed now, Brutus and Grace have their own room now.

     3. Are the behavioral problems that are safety issues that you cannot or will not address from a deep sleep?  There are several instances I can think of off of the top of my head.  Any issues that can jeopardize yours and/or the dog/s health should negate the desire to have them share your bed.  For example, if you have multiple dogs that do not get along and you are a deep sleeper, you will want to choose one dog or the other, or neither to sleep with unless you would like to wake up covered in blood with a dog fight on your chest.  If your dog is having a misunderstanding involving possession of you, or the one you share your bed with- when either party moves it is prime time for a bite.  Even if you are a light sleeper, the behaviors should not be allowed to continue, and you will have to wake in order to stop it, rather then prevent the incident altogether.

     4. Are you willing to perform the necessary routines to ensure cleanliness?  Anyone who allows pets on the furniture knows a bit about the hygiene factors.  Sheets will need to be cleaned more often, and dogs will need to be kept clean as well.

     Those are the main points.  As always, feel free to add on with a comment below.

     Happy training! :)

  

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Dog training: Of Crate Importance

     I spend most of my time on the phone helping concerned dog owners.  One of the most commonly asked questions is "Well why do I need to crate my dog at all?  He doesn't like that cage."   If you have the preconceived notion that the crate is a horrid torture device, then your dog most likely will come to believe it also.  I am going to list some of the main benefits of crate conditioning.  If I miss anything, please feel free to chime in with a comment below.

To successfully crate train a dog, it needs daily exercise.

     First, I need to clarify that crate training or crate conditioning does NOT mean simply shutting your dog away in a box indefinitely.  A crate is a safe place, it is not a substitute for obedience training, exercise and affection.  When used as a training aid, it can help a dog learn to control and calm themselves, keep the dog safe, protect the house itself from damage, and bolster self confidence and mental development.  If anyone has ever owned, seen or heard about a dog that is so insecure it even follows a person to the bathroom, crate training would be an excellent option to help that poor animal realize that a human possibly going out of sight for a few moments does not equate to eternal abandonment.

     Have you ever noticed when dogs are stressed, if they do not have a crate or other designated safe area, they will make one?  Thunder phobic dogs hide in closets, under beds, behind furniture, beneath tables..... any small and den-like place they can find.  If you do a fast interweb search, you can find tons of nifty articles supporting the fact that dogs are denning animals.  Click here to read one I found.  So if the behavior of your dog and dogs around you is not enough empirical evidence for you hardcore non-believers, look it up for yourself.

     Beyond catering to canine's natural instinct to den, crates are a way to prevent potentially dangerous situations.  Dogs are wonderfully intelligent and creative beings who can sniff out the possessions we prize most (your favorite shoes, the tv remote, the toilet paper roll..... anything covered and smothered with your scent) and effectively hide and or destroy them before you can blink.  This is dangerous not only because your chunky heels are choking hazards and your sneakers are toxic, but the tangle of cords to your computer may appear tasty as well.  Instead of wondering how your dog managed to open the cabinets that had the child-proof lock and measuring how much peroxide it takes to induce vomiting, wouldn't it be nice if you had prevented it in the first place?

Shhhh! Peanut is sleeping!

     Having a safe place to rest and receive meals (I recommend feeding in the crate from time to time) morphs the crate from a prison to a comfortable "Bed and Breakfast" in the canine mind, and can reduce potty training time dramatically.  The vast majority of folks I know do not eliminate in their beds.  Dogs have a tendency to not want to go potty where they sleep either.  If the dog still has "accidents" a crate can save you from having to clean a lot of messes.

     The most powerful reason for crate conditioning is for the mental health of the dog.  As we age and become adults we also crave our own space.  Although I have seen dogs who are perfectly content to always be attached to a human companion, I do not see it as a desirable or healthy trait to encourage.  It all too often leads directly to a dog who is an overly anxious basket case when the human is not present (separation anxiety), and eventually to a dog who cannot even figure out how to relax in your presence.   Canines have fine minds if we allow them to use them.  The crate is like giving the dog it's own room.  Anyone who has a teenager or who has been a teenager (that should be all of us) probably recalls how nice it was to have your own room that you can spend time by yourself in- no siblings or parents allowed!

     As I mentioned earlier, a dog will seek out a safe haven when stressed.  By having a crate readily available, the dog has the option to avoid stressful situations.  It will also learn to be content by itself for short periods of time, even when you are home.  It does not mean the dog will not enjoy your company and attention.  Crate training opens up the mind for more learning opportunities by limiting the dependence on human guidance.  


*for more information, please check out the main website at www.pawsthenplay.com

Dog Body Language: A Snapshot

     Yesterday I posted a picture on the Facebook page of 3 Rottweilers.   I asked readers to share what they thought the dogs were really trying to communicate with their body language.  To my delight, 3 clever ladies stepped forth with wonderful answers.

    

     Above is the picture with the flippant caption.  My explanation is a similar echo of the ladies bold enough to post responses.  Like them I have spent years around dogs.  I have trained multiple breeds in a wide variety of circumstances.  When one has hands on the leash and only a second to respond to body language while applying pressure in the form of commands or expectations reading body language becomes a critical skill to avoid undue stress in the animal or at worst, a bite.  No back story is necessary to decode body language.

     The dog in the center is clearly the most attentive to the photographer and on alert, but not necessarily "unhappy" about anything.   The mouth appears a bit tense but it is not puckered to show teeth or growl.  Not only because it is the largest is it receiving attention from the other two, but because it has the most confidence in this particular situation.  It is undaunted by the staged photo, and dogs will gravitate to the one who is willing to take control of a situation.

     The dog on the left is clearly the most uncomfortable.  It is offering obvious submission and a plea for guidance with the licking of the mouth of the center dog.  Licking of it's own mouth would show some anxiety, the application of the action to the other dog is a request.

     The dog on the right is just observing the calmly.  It has a soft open mouth, soft eyes.  The posture suggests it may have been considering laying down or he could just be young and awkward.  Not only is he smaller than the center dog, but sitting lower to avoid any unintended conflict with the dog in the center.

   

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Multiple dog management

Ebony, Grace, Gracie and Garrett hanging out on their Bases

     Someone asked me what I do at my home when I have multiple dogs.  I always have multiple dogs: I own two dogs, and when I board dogs they come to me for a variety of reasons.  A few dogs stay with me on a regular basis to keep their training fresh and occasionally add more skills.  Others are dogs with very low thresholds that the owners know would be extremely stressed in any other environment.  There are dogs who come for basic skills, such as crate conditioning, simple commands, or leash work.  But as a Behavioral Consultant I also have dogs that are from questionable backgrounds that need to be temperament tested around other dogs and people in a home environment (versus the high activity level of a shelter or other holding facility) or that are here to work on larger issues such as fear, aggression, separation anxiety.

     There are several key factors that make my business successful for all of these instances.  First and foremost, I work from my home by appointment only.  There is not a public storefront or attraction.  No pretty display areas.  Just a regular house that I live in with my husband and our two fur kids.  This means when I schedule time to work with another dog/dogs they are the only ones I am focused on.  There is minimal chance for distractions.  I do a lot of classical conditioning, which is less popular mainly because of the necessary repetition.  In addition, when I am shaping a behavior with a dog, it can cut training time in half or better when I work directly with the dog- as I only have one student to show and reward for new skills, instead of having to explain each new adaptation to the owner. 

     I am very careful to balance my appointments so I will always be mentally and physically ready and able to devote all of my attention to the goals of the canine directly in front of me.  Each lesson is a personal bonding experience of the dog to whichever humans are guiding it.  Creating my business from my house was a deliberate choice designed to limit clientele numbers to yield higher quality results in the cases I choose to take on.  Paws Then Play LLC will never have multiple employees, have a huge facility or turn into a franchise.  I do what I love to help where I can.  I have a small enough roster that I can be available to any of my students who call me at any time of day and I know who they are, who their dog is and how I can help troubleshoot without having to shuffle through papers or pull up a database.

Riley, Brutus and Grace practicing down/stay.

     The most crucial element I have here is structure.  I don't mean the frame of the house, I mean the consistency in the day to day workings with my dogs, whether there are others present or not.  Every day my dogs know and expect to have to work for their meals.  There is no "Free Lunch" served and thus it cements the state of mind in my dogs of my role as the provider (this is part of my preferred non-confrontational methods which I will write more on in another entry).  Every day has multiple training opportunities since dogs are continually learning and I am strict with my "house rules."  The dogs are never allowed to run amok in the fenced-in enclosure (about 1/2 an acre) like a doggy daycare.  They are here to learn to control themselves, and see the inherent reward in self control as opposed to the constant barrage of forced interaction that is the root cause of many of my clients' issues.

     Both of my dogs went through months (in Brutus' case years) of on-leash training and observation before earning the freedom of being leash- and collar-free by becoming reliable to voice commands at a distance and with distraction.  Any new dog will always be wearing a lead when it is out of the crate in my home until it has proven its reliability off-leash.  Not only does this allow for the greatest amount of guidance (and thus, learning potential) but dramatically reduces the chances for any undesirable behaviors to be learned or any misunderstandings that can result in a bite.

     I presently have two four-legged house guests.  Holly and Stormie are keeping their training skills current while they await their fur-ever homes.  *(For more information about these wonderful girls, click on their names above for pictures and information, or click HERE for a link to the Greater Charlotte SPCA site.)  This morning they waited patiently in their crates for their turn to go outside for potty.  Holly was outside on leash while Brutus finished his time outside.  Grace had wiggle time solo off lead.  Stormie also had one on one potty time but on a long line.   Breakfast is served one at a time, so each dog has time to really shine working on their specific training goals.  Water bowls are freshened next as everyone settles in for quiet time (I feel rest is very important after meals or training).  Potty breaks are spaced sporadically throughout the day, whenever I am switching from one dog to another (or others) and water is always freshened after a dog has been out.

Theo and Tia after a nice long walk in the woods.

     Throughout the day I rotate through the dogs finding ways to relax or challenge them in turn.  Sometimes I have only one dog out training, other times I will have all four.  Everything is gauged by how much the individual dog can handle (what can it perform with minimal stress and retain) and its particular goals.  Grace and Brutus are "control dogs" or examples mostly.  For groups of dogs out together I assign particular areas for each dog, called "bases" to prevent the possibility of aggression. My two dogs are very used to this structure and so will almost immediately relax and take a nap. Monkey see= monkeys do for the most part! Other dogs are much more inclined to relax when they see my two doing so.  When I am working on the group stays on "base" my two simply relax and snooze, showing the newbies what is expected and possible.  Once a new dog has mastered "base" sometimes I will practice basic heeling exercises with one of my dogs where they can see which makes it easier for the dog learning the new skills.

     In a nutshell, what I do with multiple dogs is handle multiple work loads.  Each dog deserves not only to be exposed positively to other humans and dogs (socialization), but also one on one training time, and time to themselves for rest.  It is a matter of being able to accurately determine each dog's threshold, and balance the possible stress of learning new skills against the progress and coveted results, while managing the environment constantly to ensure each dog's success in any given exercise.  I live for the difference I see in the dogs I work with.  Knowing that the self relaxation skills I taught a dog helped to de-escalate a potentially aggressive situation, or seeing that a handler understands their dog more fully and has taken steps to make that dog's life better gives me fulfillment and justifies any physical or mental strain I may have exerted to get them there.


For more information go to www.pawsthenplay.com or the Facebook page at www.facebook.com/pawsthenplay

A Dog Day on the Farm

     I am always looking for something new and fun to reward my pups for their hard work.  We love to learn about all types of training.  Grace has been adjusting to her new workload seamlessly so I decided a reward was in order!  For this trip, I chose to take her to a farm that specialized in herding.

Grace says "Go THIS way sheepies!"

     My Service Dog Grace has a wide background of work experience and exposure.  She has a firm foundation in basic obedience on and off lead, we took a test to be therapy certified, we have competed in competition obedience, dabbled in field and tracking work.  I felt herding would definitely be a new and fun experience, even if she did not end up having much of a natural ability for it; and knew we had a strong enough understanding as a working team that I would be able to re-direct her if the safety of the animals was ever questionable.  I had no idea what to expect.

The owner/operator of Finley Vue Farm Kelly Martin

      Findley Vue Farm in Burlington has Katahdin Sheep, Call Ducks, and Indian Runner Ducks.  There are three arenas and a round pen fenced off on the beautiful property.  The weather was perfect- mid 80s and breezy with enough sun to wear my sporty sunglasses, but not enough to feel like we were baking.  It kind of felt like I was glimpsing a secret garden as I pulled slowly into the drive.  The owner/operator Kelly Martin came to greet me as my car slowed to a stop.


    Grace and I were led to the smallest of the sections and allowed to go in with three sheep.  Instead of a traditional shepherds crook (I had Little Bo Peep in my head the entire time and it made me giggly!) I was handed a long (it was at least 5 feet) slender and lightweight pole.   Kelly already had a "feel" for how Grace and I were bonded, so suggested that it would be less stressful for me to go in with her, instead of asking her to work for someone else.


     Boy oh boy, am I awkward!  The first and most important thing was for me to BE QUIET! All that obedience residue was stuck like glue to me- I wanted to know "Should I give her the send out signal?"  "Do I encourage her verbally?" "Should I shout if she is getting too close too fast- what if she runs over a sheepie?"  Kelly has the patience of a saint.  He successfully quieted me, explained that I had to keep moving, outlined a projected movement pattern for the sheep, me, and my dog, all while calling out directional cues to me while I was in constant motion. WHEW!

I am leader of the sheep!

     Kelly was a smooth operator while I was tripping over his wonderfully tolerant sheep.  Apparently the sheep have been exposed to people like myself who are not really sure what to do around them!  Grace had a few bright ideas however!  She discovered that if she trotted along by them they would move away, and she could even make just one move around the pen!  We were both exhilarated and exhausted in a matter of minutes.  Kelly saw when our energy level dropped and suggested a break so Grace and I had time to rest, gather our thoughts and observe some of the other dogs who had come out for the event.

     There were a variety of herding breeds present, and varying skill levels as well.  We enjoyed watching a young Border Collie pup experiencing sheep herding for the first time, and also saw dog and handler teams working with sheep and ducks in other areas.  Water was distributed to dogs and bipedal folks in need as we relaxed and exchanged pleasantries.

     Grace and I were invited into the round pen with 3 sheep multiple times, with breaks in between sessions.  Each time felt a bit smoother and more purposeful as Kelly guided me kindly to shape my movements (mostly I was getting in the sheep or Grace's way).  After the sessions, he even took the time to walk around the farm to show us other areas where they hold competitive trials, and extra pastures where there is more livestock.  

     We cannot wait for our next visit to Findley Vue Farm!

*Photo by Diane Lewis:  The first Non-Border Collie AKC Herding Champion in NC, a Sheltie named "Chase" (who was Kelly's FIRST Herding Champion Dog! Hooray Kelly!!!)

* A few helpful links: 

If you would like to learn more about herding and schedule your own fun day, please click the link below and contact Kelly via his Facebook page!

Findley Vue Farm

Findley Vue's YouTube Channel  

Paws Then Play.com

Paws Then Play's Facebook Page

Fourth of July Dog Safety

Independence Day is right around the corner!

Ari is ready to grill!  Don't worry, he would never
hold a firecracker, only Mommy approved items!

Do you have exciting plans for the Holiday?  Do they involve either you going somewhere to celebrate or people coming to your home to celebrate?  Sounds fun!  What is your dog going to be doing?  I am sure you already have a safe place set aside for your four-legged buddy to relax while all the scary noises and smells occur, but just in case you may have a friend or two that hasn't planned ahead for the canine(s) in their life, here are a few points to remember.

If you are going to be spending several hours away from your dog, or have friends over to celebrate, make sure to prepare properly (and I don't mean just being sure everyone has a hat to wear): 

Bully Tested's patriotic bullies
Check out their antlers at www.bullytested.com

     -Spend extra time exercising them so they will drowse contently while you party hardy.  The longer they sleep, the less time they have to be awake wondering why there are loud booms while you are not home.   

     -Leave something for them to chew on that will not become a choking hazard, so they have an option to help them relax.  When dogs are stressed, chewing can help them calm down.  When you are not present however, being frightened can make a usually reliable dog mistake your favorite shoes, couch, or living room wall for an acceptable chew item.  Be proactive and make sure to leave them something else.  (Brutus and Grace love antlers or bones to gnaw on)

     -Make sure they are in a safe place so if the loud noises startle them, they cannot get outside and run away.  A crate or dog proofed area that the dog is already accustomed to is ideal.  Any outdoor area, even if it is fenced in is NOT recommended.  Did you know most animals shelters' populations balloon a whopping 30% in after July 4th festivities?  Make sure your dog is not one of these numbers!

     -Be sure you have a safe place for your dog to go.  Yes, I just wrote that a few sentences ago.  It is important, especially if there are other folks going in and out of your home, opening and closing the door.  Even the most stable dog can get overwhelmed after a couple hours of happy people walking all around, followed by loud noises, or strange smells.  

Sophie loves to party, but her Mom also has a safe place ready for her to rest.

   
If you know that your dog is frightened of loud noises, you may want to consider taking more steps to help them get through all the mayhem that they can hear from (literally) miles away.  Here are a few more options you may want to consider for the short term.  (If you want to teach your dog to relax without relying on aids, feel free to contact me at pawsthenplay@gmail.com.)


     -Thundershirts:  ThunderShirts are a snugly fitted garment which applies a gentle pressure to the dog's body.  It has a soothing effect for the animal, but must be used in a temperature controlled area, since it is essentially like wearing a blanket!

     -Homeopathic Treatment: There are many supplements available to help relieve stress in canines.  Having some on hand for next weekend may not be a bad idea if you are not sure how your pup will react!  One place I love to go to for information and options locally is a Holistic pet shop called Pawtique in south Charlotte.  They have several options (flower essences, supplements, etc.) and will help you select the best option for your dog.

     -Pheromone products: These products are designed to mimic the pheromones a mother dog would emit to soothe a pup.  They can be packaged as plug-ins, collars or sprays.

Air Force Military Working Dogs

      SSgt Justin Aycock is now separated from active duty with the Air Force as a Military Working Dog trainer and handler, but in the North Carolina Air National Guard.  He was selected to be a Military Working Dog handler for part of his military career.  Eleven years of active duty in the military can teach some pretty incredible things.  Over 6 years of service spent overseas in multiple countries can lend a depth to perspective as well.  Training and handling K9s is challenging on several levels.  Justin not only excelled at working with his canines, but loved it.

Christmas day '09 after a mission with US Special Forces Team

      I did not know any of this about Justin when I approached him with my blood tracking dog.  All I knew was that he seemed completely at ease around a working dog.  In the conversations that followed, I have learned so much more about this dedicated Airman, who has been gracious enough to send multiple photos, and answer several rounds of questions.

     To become a dog handler in the Air Force, you must apply to the school.  If there is a need for more handlers at that time, you may be selected.  Once selected, the new handlers will be instructed for 12 weeks at Lackland Air Force Base in San Antonio Texas.  Justin sent me a copy of the USAF K9 Training Regulations, and the document is over 200 pages long.

SSgt Aycock with Dani/D054

     Not only are handlers expected to understand all of the K9 requirements and how to train to achieve them, but they must having a working understanding of canine ethology, classical conditioning, all four quadrants of operant conditioning and the terms the Air Force uses to define all of the methods used.  Basic healthcare is expected - to physically check the dog over for general health, trim the toenails, express the anal glands if necessary, cleaning the ears, administering oral medications, and dealing with vomiting or diarrhea.

     And there is more.  Handlers must know about caring for the physical well being of their animal in serious situations.  I don't mean just checking the pulse, and for dehydration.  They must know about diseases and parasitic infections, how to treat burns, or what to do in the case of poisoning.  Handlers need to be able to administer multiple chemicals subcutaneously or intravenously, knowing how much of which and when.  They need to be able to treat bloat,  lacerations or other massive physical trauma.  They need to know how to treat their K9 until it can be brought to a veterinarian, who will NOT be in the field with them.

     There are also high standards for the dogs.  The Department of Defense selects dogs from Europe several times per year to be shipped to the Lackland AFB in Texas for training.  The dogs have 90-120 days to complete their certifications before they are shipped to their operational units.  All dogs must be trained for protection work (attack, agility and handler protection) to be suitable for patrol.  The highest demand is for dual certified K9s who also certify for explosives detection.  A dog can be disqualified for behavioral or medical issues, but those dogs are either adopted or donated to local police forces.  Dogs and handlers who succeed the challenges of training are then paired, and sent to protect our soldiers abroad.

     In other countries, dogs are viewed quite differently.  Many would give a wide berth to the K9s and their handlers, particularly in the Arab countries where dogs are kept mainly for protection, and not as family members.  In Muslim culture, dogs are seen as unclean.  When I inquired about dogs overseas, Justin said "I have never seen so many dogs before, they roam around in packs, eating trash, dead animals, whatever.  It looks like the ASPCA commercial, really sad."  The strays are usually not healthy, and are not necessarily friendly either.  Even with multiple stray dogs looking on at any given moment, a dog and handler team are still expected to operate effectively.  Lives are literally at stake.  A patrol leader as well as the handler will do everything in their power to keep their working dog safe from the diseases or any violence from the strays.

Katya/M228

     Even with all the rigorous training required, Ssgt Justin considers it well worth it.  He had 5 dogs he was paired with on various deployments not including the ones he trained with.  Justin bonded very closely with his working K9s.  I know Justin was smiling when I asked him if he also taught his working dogs tricks and games to help pass the time and have some fun.  He replied "Absolutely, usually the same things you would teach your personal dog.  I taught my third dog Katya/M228 how to speak on command [using a hand signal] while in Iraq."   He plans on continuing training working dogs after he finishes his B.A. in Criminal Justice.

     When I asked Justin how it feels to have the hands on the leash of a Military Working Dog; after a night he answered me.  "It's a feeling I can't describe, especially when you get to use your skill set on a 'hot' call at home station or a bomb sweep when deployed.  I had been a handler about 3.5 years before I deployed to Iraq, and the suspense of going out on your first mission and gearing up yourself and your dog and knowing that you may be the only thing that means the difference between getting life or death for yourself or others weighs on you."

January 2010: Weapons search at a market near Diwaniyah, Iraq

     The five dogs Ssgt Justin Aycock worked closest with are listed below.  For more details on Justin's training history click here.

          MWD Dani/D054 - Explosive Detection/Patrol

          MWD Ciba/H181- Patrol

          MWD Katya/M228 - Explosive Detection/Patrol

          MWD Bartje/L243 - Narcotic Detection/ Patrol

          MWD Charis/K106 - Narcotics Detection

     As we were wrapping up the interviews, I asked Justin if there was anything else he felt was important to share about him and his career in the Air Force.  He asked that I share two organizations' websites.  These two organizations support Military Working Dog teams all over the world.  Please take a moment to check them out!


   The US War Dogs Organization  www.uswardogs.org 

     The John Burnam Memorial Foundation  www.jbmf.us/index.aspx

     To close, I will leave you all with some of his own words that resonated with me, and really made me feel his passion for his continuing career with working dogs:

 "...seeing the product of your training, it's very satisfying to see your dog perform on a task that you have trained for.  Very few jobs that I have had offered that.  You may be having a rough day but once you leash up and start training you have to be on top of your game..."  

I just met you, and this is crazy.....

     I had a person ask me this morning "Do you have a blog on dog etiquette? Specifically when people go to a house with dogs and when people have children and the dog goes to it's [place]."

Roxy the Malamute

     There are so many elements that can be addressed with this issue!  I will try to focus on what a careful owner can do to keep their dog secure.

     I used to think not touching strange dogs was a "No-brainer" until I reached adulthood and began taking my dogs with me to places.  People I have never met have walked or run directly up and tried to pet or hug my dog.  I have learned to create safe areas in my home where my dogs can go to relax and guests are not allowed to invade.  In public I have learned to be willing to stand up for myself, and teach people how to respect dog's space.  Unfortunately, some lessons I have learned have been through trial and error.  By sharing, hopefully you all can benefit from my experiences in the past.

       To start: It is my responsibility as a caring pet owner to preserve my animals' trust in me.  To allow an animal to be put in a situation that could cause a growl, snap or bite can have devastating consequences emotionally and legally.  As a sentient being I expect to not be fondled by complete strangers.  I insist on the same respect for my dogs.

     At my home, I control the environment.  If my dogs are asleep, do not bother them.  Just because me and my husband can, does not mean I expect them to tolerate it from strangers.  If I see signs of stress in my dogs I allow them to go to their designated safe areas.   Not all dogs want to be overly affectionate with strangers.  Both of my dogs have been Therapy tested (and passed).  This does not mean I expect them to make out with total strangers all the time.  Even Therapy Dogs need time to relax!  It is my job to oversee any interactions to be sure my pups are behaving, not crowding, barking or jumping on my guests.  It is also my duty to be sure my guests are being polite and not teasing or hurting my dogs (I have found small children have quite a "pinch" when they grasp things).

     One of the safe areas for my pups is in a spare bedroom where I will close the door to make my intentions clear.  There is no reason for a guest to be wandering into our bedrooms unaccompanied, thus it ensures my dogs do not become stressed when people come over, since they have seen it demonstrated repeatedly that they have a safe haven.  It can also avoid awkward conversations with folks who are not very dog savvy.  I have had guests over who do not even realize that there are multiple dogs in the household.

Luca the American Eskimo Dog

     When in public, a person should ALWAYS ask to pet.  No exceptions.  My dogs have a strong foundation in basic obedience before they are allowed in public, so when I stop moving, they stop with me.  For the people who run up to my dogs, I will literally move in front and block the person (if needed, I put my hand up extended in the classic "STOP" open palm).  If they do not recall their manners, I will prompt them with a friendly "Did you want to ask to pet my dogs?"  If they appear young, I insist they retrieve their parents first.  If they are inattentive or rude I will not allow them to touch my dogs.

     So often as dog handlers we forget we have the freedom to walk away.  I worked with a gal years ago who allowed a polite young child to pet her dog.  The child began playing with her male dog's er..... nether part.  The parent was nowhere to be seen.  Thank goodness her dog is so tolerant (the gal is an excellent handler), but situations like this can mostly be prevented, and if not, managed.  Don't feel obligated to allow someone to do something to your dog that makes you feel uncomfortable (I am referring to an acquaintance or stranger here, not your Veterinarian).  If you are uncomfortable saying "No" or "Stop" blatantly, you can always just leave hurriedly explaining that you forgot you had an appointment (I have used that one myself).

     Lastly, try to be patient with people.  Each interaction is an opportunity to educate.  My own family did not understand at first why I sometimes seemed to "hide my dogs from them".  Before I met my former mentor, I did not really have a concept of a "Working Dog" other than a dog who serves in the Military or guides the blind.  Pass some knowledge on if you can, and you could make the world a safer place for dogs.

   

Proactive versus Reactive Dog Training

     Have you ever wondered how to correct or punish an undesirable behavior in your dog?  I see dozens of people posting on websites daily to vent their frustrations.  Almost every dog owner has had to deal with issues before, so here is one option that may help.

Photo courtesy of the Greater Charlotte SPCA

     Change how you are thinking about the problem.  A question I see posed very often is "How do I correct my dog for  ________?"  That means you have already acknowledged that the undesired event will occur again.  The Oxford Dictionary defines "Reactive" as "acting in response to a situation instead of creating or controlling it."    If you do not have control over the situation or environment that created the undesirable behavior, then you need to consider removing the dog (and possibly yourself) from it altogether.

     If instead we focus on what can be done to prevent a repetition of the behavior, not only does this course of action yield more consistent results, but the bond between human and canine remains unclouded by misused or misunderstood gestures of "punishment" or "correction".

     If your 4 month old puppy suddenly begins chewing on your couch cushions instead of his/her own toys, a "correction" should not be what you first seek.  At that age, the dog does not yet know what is or is not allowed.  It has not been alive long enough to establish consistent patterns, and is (hopefully) learning new behaviors every day for which it is getting praised.  Punishment should not be the first choice of responses.

     Consider instead what else can be done to prevent the situation, or to change it if it is occurring.  A new rule of "No puppies on the couch" may be all that is needed to remedy the rouge chewing.  The couch as a resting place can always be introduced later as a reward.  I find leaving a leash on if the pup is loose in the house is an easy way to help restrict them from choice areas.  Spend more time praising your dog for behaviors that you like seeing.

Maple and Morgan hanging out in the sun

     Knowing that chewing is another way for dogs to release energy, increasing exercise should be another option.  Add an extra training session during the day.  Play fetch.  Record a movie of your dog performing all the tricks it knows and send it to your friends.  Go for a walk.  Visit a pet store.  Learn a new skill.  The options are endless.  A tired dog will chew significantly less.

     If cuddling on the couch always leads to a cushion in the mouth, and you just don't want to sacrifice the warm fuzzy feeling of your pup on the couch, consider keeping a stash of toys within reach.  As soon as Fido's nose goes toward the cushion, put a toy under that nose!  If you were not paying attention, missed your timing, and are still unwilling to put the pup on the ground, you need to be willing to have some drool and missing pieces of couch cushion.

     For help with proactive thinking and training, please feel free to contact me directly at pawsthenplay@gmail.com

     Happy Training!

   

Come When Called? Dog Training in Action

     My pups have about half an acre fenced in behind our house which my husband has generously donated for all things dog related.  Early on I took the time to train boundaries as the fence is only four feet high, so barely a hop for my long-legged kiddos.  I also conditioned for potty on the exterior, so I can use the center open area for training when weather permits.  On pleasant days like today, I will often allow one or both of the pups some free time in the yard to simply relax and enjoy themselves, since I can see the area from my kitchen window.  Overall, it is space we all have enjoyed.

     Today the gate was left open.

     For Grace, my German Shepherd Dog, it is no issue.  She will romp around the center open area, hopping like a bunny, always glancing back to me as if to say "Did you see that Mom?".  For my hound mix Brutus, it is another story....

     Some of you may have read about my tracking adventures with Brutus.  He has performed spectacularly through woods or field on tracks up to 250 yards (we are gradually building the distance).  When he is harnessed, he will even completely disregard squirrels and other small woodland creatures fleeing his approach while he is on the trail I assigned.  When left to his own devices in the yard, he will sniff indiscriminately the myriad rabbit, squirrel, human, opossum or rare raccoon tracks in the yard.

     Today, Brutus was outside enjoying the sun, and his nose led him to the open gate.  Meanwhile, I had stepped away from the window to add some cream to my coffee.  Once I returned and saw the empty yard
I stepped out onto the back stoop and called for Brutus.  I heard a single bark in answer from the other side of the fence!

     I called again to be sure my ears were not playing tricks on me.  This time, I got a double bark, and then my silly hound hopped straight up in the air to show me where he was.  I live on a fairly busy street, but the last thing I wanted to do was encourage him to jump over the fence (at this point I did not know how he got out), even if it was towards me because I do not want fence jumping to become a habit.  I paused for a moment to see what Brutus was doing.  He was pointing at a game trail on the outside of the fence line, and then glancing to me to be sure I was watching him.

     I called for him to "Come Inside!" and gave a special command that I only use when a reward is absolutely guaranteed.  I left the back door open so he had access to the house, and hustled to the front window in time to see him fly across the front yard towards the side where the gate was.  By the time I grabbed a treat (it's just his normal dog food- but don't tell HIM that!) and headed back to the kitchen, he was scrambling into a beautiful "Front" position (sitting squarely in front of me).  I fed and praised him, and put him on a Base (a special mat for "Lie Down and Stay") while I darted outside to walk the fence line to see where he could have gotten out.

     I walked the entire perimeter and saw no flaws.  I stopped at the gate (which appeared to be closed) and  put my hand on it to lean and ponder.  The gate wobbled under my touch.  It had not been latched!  I feel like anyone who may have seen me at that exact moment may have seen a light bulb above my head like in the cartoons.  I returned to my patient hound and put a slip lead on him.  We walked out to the gate together.

     Even though the gate opens inward, it proved no challenge to my curious Brutus.  He bumped it casually with his nose and waited for it to swing open.   He strutted through the opening like a model on a catwalk and then sat on the other side waiting for me to join him.  I could not help but laugh.  Basic obedience really pays off!  I called him back to me and we went in to cuddle on the couch before our afternoon walk.  Mystery solved.

     Thank goodness he knows "Come When Called"!

Buy now! Because I say so!

   
     I just watched a short commercial with an adorable French Bulldog trotting around a bright and cheery home and then munching a bowl of the advertised kibble.  The company began with a picture of plain brown "competitor kibble" in a dull bowl on a blank background and then showed its bright and colorful kibble cascading merrily across the screen while a friendly voice told viewers that dogs preferred color to boring plain kibble.  It ended with the aforementioned pup chomping the red, beige and brown mixed kibble.

Cute faces and bright colors make us want to buy things!

     No mention of nutrition.  And of course we all know the colors listed above would all be shades of grey to a pooch anyways...... (dogs see in a blue and yellow spectrum, this link explains in greater detail)  So the company assumes that we are silly enough consumers that we will just say "Ooooh! Pretty colors!" and skip to the nearest grocery store to pick up those lovely bits.   The sad part is, some do.

     Some dog food companies are better at telling us nothing.  They have quaint stories telling consumers how much they love their pets and only want to feed them the best.  They complain about how no other companies exist that can give their babies the proper nutrition and so they had to create their own, dedicated to bringing you only the best, etc. etc.  All these things sound very nice, but for me, there is no direct correlation to good intentions and actually producing the best product.

     There are always such lovely pictures of dogs and cats, some running, jumping, rolling, being hugged or just sitting prettily.  Once again, while it hit's the internal "awwwww" button nicely, it provides no factual evidence of why their brand is optimal, other than because they say so.  My pets are important to me, as are their nutritional needs.  I want more proof.

    My personal favorites on the craftiness scale are those sites who will partially "educate" the general public in order to make their brand the most attractive and only logical choice.  I went to the website of a well-known dog food to see what their "spin" was.  They have some good basic facts sprinkled in with information that is misleading or just plain wrong.

     One site says "For example, real chicken meat is a higher quality protein source than chicken or poultry by-product meals; chicken fat is considered a higher quality source of essential fatty acids than generic 'animal fats.' Subtle differences like these may determine whether a pet food brand’s ingredients are as healthy as they claim to be."  Sounds legit, right?  

An older ad from the 70s

     
     Let's examine that more closely.  
     
     The first part states that real chicken meat is a higher quality protein source than meals.  Other companies use fake chicken?  Oh no!  That's not what they said, is it?  Of course not.  They simply implied it.   Okay so we agree real chickens are better than fake chickens, so do we agree that the :"real chicken" is a higher quality protein source than meals?  I do not.  Raw chicken is about 70% moisture (water) and 18% protein.  A "meal" in this case is a rendering of a whole chicken (or by products) where most of the water has been cooked away, and then baked to form a super concentrated result (meal) with about four times more protein per pound  than raw chicken (read more here ).  Surprised yet?


     The next part says that chicken fat is better than generic "animal fats".  Well duh.  Of course we don't trust "mystery meats" (or "mystery fats" in this case)!   Another way to highlight what this brand does right- awesome job so far advertising team!  A general statement to be wary of those evil "other guys" at the end to hopefully keep you from snooping around other dog food companies, and BAM: profits soar!

     It does not mention the fact that with the 70% moisture in raw (real) chicken, it must be cooked down in order to be made in to kibble.  After processing, it probably accounts for much less than you think in the finished product!

     Of all the advertisements I have been nosing through lately (and it is more than you think!) I notice the vast majority of content pertaining to dog food is designed to appeal to the human sensibilities.  It is impossible to find any facts supporting one particular food or diet or another.  Certain elements and ingredients have proven track records, but there have not been enough conclusive studies done on canine nutrition over a long period of time.  There are too many variables to render results that are accurate.  

     This is not to say all dog kibbles are bad.  There are some great options out there!  Just be careful to really find out more about what companies are actually promising.  Depending on the activity level of your dog, age, breed, general health and budget, a different food may work for your dog than your friend's dog.  That's perfectly okay.  Just make the decision based on facts, not on clever advertising.  

     I hope you enjoy the video clip below of one of my favorite advertisements from "101 Dalmations"!

     *If you want to hear more about dog foods, or have other questions please leave a comment below.

Please visit our main site at www.pawsthenplay.com 

Ride Along

    The ice had all melted away, leaving muddy puddles and miniature streams covering the fields by my house.  The solid sheet of sleet that had frozen on my back stoop was twice as slick.  Grace and I slowly slid down the two steps as carefully as we could to the brick patio which had slightly more traction.   We made our way safely to the car, which was nice and toasty thanks to a sweet husband who started it a few minutes earlier.

     The roads were clear thankfully.  Sunlight glittered off of the millions of drops of dissolving icicles plopping merrily from the trees and power lines.  I actually think ice is prettier than snow, it makes things so shiny... until it melts!  I was glad I remembered my sunglasses, but took them off when we drove under the awning at the drive through.

     Grace had made herself comfortable for our trip.  The pups have two towels in the back that always begin the journey neatly spread to cover the back seat.  We pretend that this will protect the seats from getting covered with dog hair.  Brutus likes to use his front feet to flip the towels into a wad that he will circle, circle, circle on top of until it feels "right" for him to nestle down onto.  Grace just kind of flops gracelessly in a "whoomph".

     At each drive through window, she likes to pop her head up and put her nose just behind my left ear.  Perhaps she likes to get a whiff of the voices coming from the windows.  It could also be that she enjoys the varied reactions of the people who see her.  Places we stop by frequently know her and Brutus by name, and greet them more enthusiastically than they do me.  I am not offended- my dogs ARE pretty awesome!

     Finally, the errands are done.  We turn towards home.  I notice a business parking lot that is mostly empty.  That will do just fine for today.  I pull in cautiously, since it doesn't appear to have been salted.  It is important that there is no salt down as it could irritate puppy paws!  I park and pull out a collar and leash.

     Grace sits quietly while I fuss with the collar and leash, switching twice as I changed my mind.  I decided on the "string things"- my thinnest lead and collar.  They are so light they can simulate being off leash, without having to actually have her off lead (leash laws).  I call her out with me and we practice a few heeling patterns.  I tighten up my turns using the foot pattern that was shown to me by a seasoned exhibitor.   Grace plays a statue on command through three different positions of "stay".  Recalls are not perfect, but that is what practice is for!

     Nine minutes later, and we are back in the car.  The heat coming out of the vents is still nice and toasty.  A short while later we are home and cuddling by the fire.

     I try to bring my dogs with me whenever I can.  A training session does not have to be long to be beneficial, and any chance to bond more with my pups, I gladly take!

Resource Guarding

     One of the most common problems I am asked about is resource guarding.  I can not solve your dog's issues from a blog entry.  What I can do, is arm you with enough information to reduce risk to your self, others in your household, and your dog.  I can provide some tips that hopefully prevent further escalation until a professional can be contacted.

  Sometimes guarding is obvious.

     Guarding resources is a basic instinct.  That does not mean it should be permitted when your dog displays discomfort or aggression towards a human or another animal in the household, but understanding that it is a natural reaction is important to keep in mind.  It does not mean your dog is "Aggressive", "Dominant", or needs to be "put in it's place".  I find labels one of the most dangerous things in dealing safely and proactively with dogs who have issues.

     In a perfect world, we would call a behaviorist that we already know and trust, and quickly "solve" the problem behavior.  Reality often deals a different hand- we may have scheduling or funding restrictions, or not be willing to admit that professional help is needed.  Also, the fastest solution is often not a long term one.

     If you have seen behavior in your home that you suspect is resource guarding DO NOT attempt to re-create the situation. As humans, when we are uncertain or unwilling to accept information we ask again.  If you heard a growl when you walked by Fido's food bowl, walking up and sticking your hand in it is an invitation to get bitten.  Repeating something and expecting a different result is one of the definitions of insanity, and can cause escalation in a behavior.

     Call a behaviorist when you first notice the problem.  Asking people on the internet is not the same as consulting with a behaviorist.  Even a dog trainer is often not equipped with enough information for successful behavior modification.  If you do not have the money to invest in a solution immediately, you may be surprised how many professionals are willing to talk to you anyways, and help you stay safe until you can come in.

Body language can display a variety of ways on different dogs.      

     Until a professional has met your dog, the solutions may not be clear.  Every household and dog is different, so different techniques will have greater efficacy per dog, per household.  There is not an easy 1,2,3 step "fix" that I am aware of.

     Your goal is to change something to prevent the behavior from occurring again.  If your dog has already growled, lunged or bitten another dog, separating the dog unless supervised is the first step.  This does not mean total isolation!  Please do not simply put them in their crate or room and hide from them until a professional arrives.

     Remember what resource appears to be triggering the behavior, and ensure that it will not be available to them in the presence of other animals or people.  It is not always easy to identify- it can be a place or person.  If it is a toy, bone or treat,  that is very easy- simply put it away behind a closed door where the dog cannot access it.  If it is meals be sure to feed when you and the dog are the only ones around, and put small amounts of food down at a time, allowing the dog to finish before you add more.  If you have children, it is recommended that any interaction between them and the dog is minimized and closely supervised.  The key is to be SAFE, not sorry!

     If you think you may have a resource guarding issue in your home, please feel free to contact me, and I will help you.