Ride Along

    The ice had all melted away, leaving muddy puddles and miniature streams covering the fields by my house.  The solid sheet of sleet that had frozen on my back stoop was twice as slick.  Grace and I slowly slid down the two steps as carefully as we could to the brick patio which had slightly more traction.   We made our way safely to the car, which was nice and toasty thanks to a sweet husband who started it a few minutes earlier.

     The roads were clear thankfully.  Sunlight glittered off of the millions of drops of dissolving icicles plopping merrily from the trees and power lines.  I actually think ice is prettier than snow, it makes things so shiny... until it melts!  I was glad I remembered my sunglasses, but took them off when we drove under the awning at the drive through.

     Grace had made herself comfortable for our trip.  The pups have two towels in the back that always begin the journey neatly spread to cover the back seat.  We pretend that this will protect the seats from getting covered with dog hair.  Brutus likes to use his front feet to flip the towels into a wad that he will circle, circle, circle on top of until it feels "right" for him to nestle down onto.  Grace just kind of flops gracelessly in a "whoomph".

     At each drive through window, she likes to pop her head up and put her nose just behind my left ear.  Perhaps she likes to get a whiff of the voices coming from the windows.  It could also be that she enjoys the varied reactions of the people who see her.  Places we stop by frequently know her and Brutus by name, and greet them more enthusiastically than they do me.  I am not offended- my dogs ARE pretty awesome!

     Finally, the errands are done.  We turn towards home.  I notice a business parking lot that is mostly empty.  That will do just fine for today.  I pull in cautiously, since it doesn't appear to have been salted.  It is important that there is no salt down as it could irritate puppy paws!  I park and pull out a collar and leash.

     Grace sits quietly while I fuss with the collar and leash, switching twice as I changed my mind.  I decided on the "string things"- my thinnest lead and collar.  They are so light they can simulate being off leash, without having to actually have her off lead (leash laws).  I call her out with me and we practice a few heeling patterns.  I tighten up my turns using the foot pattern that was shown to me by a seasoned exhibitor.   Grace plays a statue on command through three different positions of "stay".  Recalls are not perfect, but that is what practice is for!

     Nine minutes later, and we are back in the car.  The heat coming out of the vents is still nice and toasty.  A short while later we are home and cuddling by the fire.

     I try to bring my dogs with me whenever I can.  A training session does not have to be long to be beneficial, and any chance to bond more with my pups, I gladly take!

Resource Guarding

     One of the most common problems I am asked about is resource guarding.  I can not solve your dog's issues from a blog entry.  What I can do, is arm you with enough information to reduce risk to your self, others in your household, and your dog.  I can provide some tips that hopefully prevent further escalation until a professional can be contacted.

  Sometimes guarding is obvious.

     Guarding resources is a basic instinct.  That does not mean it should be permitted when your dog displays discomfort or aggression towards a human or another animal in the household, but understanding that it is a natural reaction is important to keep in mind.  It does not mean your dog is "Aggressive", "Dominant", or needs to be "put in it's place".  I find labels one of the most dangerous things in dealing safely and proactively with dogs who have issues.

     In a perfect world, we would call a behaviorist that we already know and trust, and quickly "solve" the problem behavior.  Reality often deals a different hand- we may have scheduling or funding restrictions, or not be willing to admit that professional help is needed.  Also, the fastest solution is often not a long term one.

     If you have seen behavior in your home that you suspect is resource guarding DO NOT attempt to re-create the situation. As humans, when we are uncertain or unwilling to accept information we ask again.  If you heard a growl when you walked by Fido's food bowl, walking up and sticking your hand in it is an invitation to get bitten.  Repeating something and expecting a different result is one of the definitions of insanity, and can cause escalation in a behavior.

     Call a behaviorist when you first notice the problem.  Asking people on the internet is not the same as consulting with a behaviorist.  Even a dog trainer is often not equipped with enough information for successful behavior modification.  If you do not have the money to invest in a solution immediately, you may be surprised how many professionals are willing to talk to you anyways, and help you stay safe until you can come in.

Body language can display a variety of ways on different dogs.      

     Until a professional has met your dog, the solutions may not be clear.  Every household and dog is different, so different techniques will have greater efficacy per dog, per household.  There is not an easy 1,2,3 step "fix" that I am aware of.

     Your goal is to change something to prevent the behavior from occurring again.  If your dog has already growled, lunged or bitten another dog, separating the dog unless supervised is the first step.  This does not mean total isolation!  Please do not simply put them in their crate or room and hide from them until a professional arrives.

     Remember what resource appears to be triggering the behavior, and ensure that it will not be available to them in the presence of other animals or people.  It is not always easy to identify- it can be a place or person.  If it is a toy, bone or treat,  that is very easy- simply put it away behind a closed door where the dog cannot access it.  If it is meals be sure to feed when you and the dog are the only ones around, and put small amounts of food down at a time, allowing the dog to finish before you add more.  If you have children, it is recommended that any interaction between them and the dog is minimized and closely supervised.  The key is to be SAFE, not sorry!

     If you think you may have a resource guarding issue in your home, please feel free to contact me, and I will help you.

Finding my Husband: A Tracking Tale

     The past few months have been a busy time at my house, as it is every year from late October to mid January.    It is deer hunting season! My husband and many of his friends and family participate zealously, so there are usually plenty of deer to be processed- yum!

     Sadly, sometimes even a perfect shot can go awry, leaving an injured deer that must be found.  This leaves the hunter with a long walk through the woods, putting their tracking skills to the ultimate test.  At times, even the most dedicated human cannot find the deer, who either survived and got out of range, or died without being found.

     One day this scenario happened, and Brutus and I happened to be close enough that we were called to help find the deer.  I had absolutely no tracking experience and neither did Brutus, but the general consensus was that we should have a better chance with a canine nose.  I always have an extra harness and long line with me when I travel with the dogs, so I dressed my dog up and went into the woods.

     Immediately, Brutus zeroed in on the spot where the deer was shot.  I had no idea- I was just hanging on to the line being dragged along!  The hunters were excited and more confident than I was.  There were a few drops of blood on the ground, and a spot where even I could tell the deer had fallen down.  After a few frantic seconds of sniffing and circling, we were off!

     Running through the woods may not sound too tough if you do not do it often.  IT IS.  As Brutus trotted determinedly with his nose to the ground he was completely nonplussed by the myriad of branches, spiderwebs and tree roots that seemed to reach out to slap me in the face and tangle my feet.  Instead of going around thick patches of briars, he plunged through or underneath them.  I was wearing short sleeves but luckily had donned jean pants, or my legs would have been just as scratched as my arms were.  My sweet cuddle-bug Brutus did not notice any of my discomfort however, he kept on trucking through those woods.

     After some time, maybe 10 minutes of so, he aruptly stopped and not only his nubby tail, but his whole body was vibrating at a high speed!  I caught up to him, and there were a few drops of blood on some leaves!  We cheered and petted him and Bru was so overwhelmed that he was hopping like a maniac... until a chipmunk startled by our noise darted about 20 yards away from us.  I was jerked off my feet as he took off after it, baying like the hound he is.  I can laugh now, but my posterior was sore for a few days!  We reeled him back in with the long line, and showed him the deer blood again after a few minutes, when he was calmer.

     Brutus was on the trail again!  Nose down, tracking like he was born for it!  I was tired but it seemed effortless for everyone else.  We went all over- unexpected turns, across a creek twice, over a large pile of rocks, and through spiderwebs that brought out the ninja in me (I waved my arms but still ended up with spider silk in my hair).  Gradually I realized we were gaining speed- I was almost at a flat out run trying to keep pace with Brutus!  We all got excited and began encouraging Brutus "Go on boy!"  "Good nose! Find 'im!"

     I ended up having to hand off the long line to someone who could keep up better with Brutus.  I fell a bit behind, but was keeping them in sight, when a loud chorus of shouts went up.  I sprinted as best I could to see what all the fuss was about.

    Brutus had found....... my husband.  Brutus danced! And pranced!  He gave kisses!  He hopped and wuffed and generally looked extremely pleased with himself.  He ran from my husband and back to me a few times.

     My husband had been the first person out to track the injured deer.  After a lengthy conversation, we were able to determine with a fair amount of certainty that we had taken the same path my husband had.  The path began at the place where the deer had been shot, so we all assumed the dog was following the deer track.

     We never did find that deer.  I had a good laugh though.

     We did find out that my stripey rescue dog has one great nose!  It has inspired me to do a lot more research to help learn more about how to teach Brutus to isolate a particular scent to follow.  Ignorant handling and lack of a tracking training foundation doomed us from the start on our first hunt, but now we are discovering a lot!  I just went yesterday to watch a tracking test in Huntersville.  Hopefully by next year we will be ready to help.  Wish us luck!  :)

Four Easy Ways to Help Save Dogs

     The majority of us feel sympathy for unwanted dogs.  The multitude of rescues and shelters tug our heartstrings with soulful pictures, horrify us with evidence of abuses, sadden us with statistics, and only occasionally can we see the "Happy Ending" for the furry creature in need.  So why do animals in need still exist if there are so many feelings of goodwill toward rescue work?  Because there are a lot of misconceptions floating about!

Photo by PawsThenPlay at Gaston County Animal Control

     I wanted to share simple things you can do to help homeless animals.  I think you may be surprised how effortless it can be!


4 Easy Ways You Can Help

1.  Next time you are at the store to buy some treats or a new toy for your fur baby, buy two and donate one to less fortunate animals.  Many stores have options on location to donate as you check out, in amounts as little as $1.  Some agencies will even take donations of gently used items (such as extra blankets for winter, or toys that your pet wouldn't touch)

2.  When you see a post online with an animal in need- share it!  It only takes mere seconds of your time.  Even though you may not be able to do anything, some one you know may be able to.

3.  If you do have some spare time, consider volunteering as a "holder" at local rescue/adoption events.  So many organizations have lots of puppies they would love to bring, but no one to hold the leashes or keep an eye on the puppy pens so must leave them at the facility or foster home, which means they are less likely to be adopted because they are not seen.

4.  Spay and/or neuter your pet.  The vast majority of animals at shelters are the results of unintentional or poorly planned breeding.  Almost every major city has low-cost spay and neuter clinics.

Foster Photo from The Greater Charlotte SPCA

     See?  No millionaire funding needed (although donations can help).  You don't need to quit your job to have enough time to help.  And you don't need to feel obligated to foster if your home situation does not allow.

     For those of you in the Charlotte NC area, I have the information to two local rescue organizations if you would like to help.  The links are provided below.  Just click on the name of the rescue, and it will take you to their website.  There are many many more, these are just the two I know people personally within the organization. :)   Anyone else who works with an organization, please feel free to add the link in a comment below so people can find you.

Greater Charlotte SPCA

Rescued Me

     Happy Training, and thank you for remembering those less fortunate than our own fur-kids!

Potty Basics: To Go or Not To Go

*** Please see below for photo credits

    Did you know some responsible breeders start potty training exercises with their pups at as early as 3 weeks of age?  By the time their dogs are sent to new loving homes, they already have grasped the basic principles of eliminating outside!

     Most of us are not so fortunate.  We arrive home with our furry bundle of joy, and have to clean up not so pleasant puddles or smelly surprises a few times before our four-footed family members learn where to "go".

     Here are a few tips to help with potty training your new (or slightly confused) companion!


~Remember the times when a dog will naturally need to eliminate: when first waking up (even from a short nap), when full of food or water, after vigorous play or exercise, and additional times depending on age and bladder size.

~ Clean for Real.   You can't smell a thing?  The stain is out of the carpet? Great, but Fido has a much more sensitive sniffer!  If you are not using an enzymatic cleanser (one that lists "enzymes" in the ingredients), you are not killing the pheromones, which are the scent markers that tell your dog that this is an appealing place to go because it has been used before.

*** Please see below for photo credits

~Know when they are full.  When is the last time your dog ate?  How about the last time they drank  water?  By having assigned feeding times, and putting the water dish where you can easily see when they drink will help you know when your dog is full, and needs to be emptied.

~Learn your dog's cues.  Almost every dog gives signals when they have to eliminate.  Some dogs discreetly sniff, some circle, some pace, some just get really anxious and jittery.  You will need to learn what your dog does so you can get them outside to where they are supposed to do it, or they will not be able to learn that is what you want.  Once the pattern of going outside to potty has started, then you can add your own cue (such as bells at the door).  If you try to add your own cue too early, you have a very good possibility of simply training your dog that the cue means going outside to play (and nothing to do with potty).

~Don't spend too long outside waiting.  Go directly to one area in your yard where you would like them to eliminate and stand quietly.  No talking to them, no playing.  You probably want to have them on a leash at first even if you have a fenced in yard, or you will have no way to keep them from turning "potty time" into "game time".  If your pup does not use the bathroom after a few minutes, it's not the end of the world.  Just go back inside and continue life as normal while watching for your dog's cues.

~REWARD!!!  As soon as they begin to eliminate, quietly praise (who likes to be shouted at while using the toilet?) and be sure to follow up that praise with a yummy treat!  After your treat, then you can have that great walk, fun game of fetch, or other rewarding activity!  Never punish for a potty mistake.  This is not only unfair to the dog (YOU were supposed to get them outside), but can set your potty training backwards- since they probably won't want to go potty in front of you again!

*** Please see below for photo credits

~Minimize opportunity for accidents.  If your dog is still having accidents, WATCH THEM.  If you cannot keep your eyes on them, they need to be in a safe place, such as a crate, or puppy safe room or pen.

~If you are having trouble with one particular area (they always "Oops" in the same spot), after you have properly cleaned it with an enzymatic cleanser, feed them there for several days.  It is unnatural for an animal to want to eliminate where it habitually eats (do you know anyone with a toilet on their dining room table?).



     These are just a few basics.  If you would like help setting specific goals for your puppy or dog, please feel free to contact me.

     Happy training!



*** All photos used in this entry are courtesy of the Greater Charlotte SPCA.  Please feel free to check out their website!   www.charlotteSPCA.org 

Back to Basics: Luring, Catching and Shaping

     Every dog needs a solid foundation to understand what it is that humans want it to do.  All too often, I see how basic skill sets are glossed over.  The process of learning is rushed to achieve an end result that is not as consistent because of the lack of understanding on the human side of the leash.  By fully understanding not only how to train for a specific command, but why it works, a handler can strengthen their own handling skills and improve the communication overall with their dog.  This paves the way for future successful learning, which we know happens throughout entire lifetimes.

Grace, Brutus and Riley

     Three of the most basic training methods in the positive reinforcement category (and every dog should start in this quadrant of Operant Conditioning) are Luring, Catching, and Shaping.  If you have taught your dog any basic commands (such as "sit", "down" or "come") you have had to use at least one of these!  If your timing is consistent with the reward, your dog can perform the behaviors.

     Luring is exactly what it sounds like.  You are presenting a tasty (and hopefully healthy) reward and using it to guide the dog to where you would like them to be, or where you would like the body to be (such as bringing the food above the nose for "sit").  When the dog is in the correct place/position, the treat and praise are earned!  Seems simple, yes?  It can be, if it is repeated often enough for the dog to associate the correct result- otherwise, the dog has simply learned to follow food held in your hands (which is also a helpful skill, but not always the desired result).  If your handling skills are not fully developed, you may have difficulty getting your dog to the correct position consistently.  Practice makes perfect, but this is one instance where there is a definite advantage to having an experienced handler to help you.

     Catching a behavior is solely dependent on the handler's attention and timing.  Any behavior your pet performs naturally can become a command using this method, if you can "catch" and reward them doing it often enough.  I always train for a default "Down" in my dogs.  When I do not tell them to do anything, I would prefer for them to lie down and relax.  To train for this, every time I see them lying down, I give a treat (in my case, it is kibble, but they think of their food as treats), name the behavior, and praise.  When Brutus was young and we were just beginning with the "Default Down", as he began to understand the behavior I was rewarding, he would follow me from room to room and lie down and pretend to sleep to get a piece of food.  Now it is less obvious (he no longer collapses in front of my feet), but he still will lie quietly inside until I tell him otherwise (he is now 7 and 1/2 years old)

     Shaping is considered the most difficult by some because it requires more patience.  To shape a behavior is to reward something that is close to what you want, and then gradually change when you are rewarding to encourage different elements in the behavior originally rewarded for.  Often, luring and catching are used while shaping a behavior.  An example would be to teach your dog "Paw" or "High Five", you may initially reward for the dog just having the paw in the air and allowing you to touch the foot, but you gradually make the dog put the paw in/on your hand by withholding the reward for slightly longer periods of time.

     For the last two methods (Catching and Shaping) many people use a "Clicker".  A clicker is a small box with a thin sheet of metal that makes a soft popping noise (or click) when pressed.  I personally choose to use my voice.  Not only is it one less thing to hold, but I can change the tone, volume or emphasis in my word of praise to really communicate how happy I am to the dog I am working with.

     The clip above is me with a rescue dog "Peanut", who did very very learning the basics!  I used catching to teach the "sit", and added a hand signal.  The "Down" is still being learned, and I lured to get him in the position.  And lastly, I was shaping the "Wait" command to add more distance away from him.

     The most common pitfall I see students struggle with is thinking they are "done" teaching a command too soon.  After a few repetitions, the human adds another command or two.  The next day, another few commands.  The handler is so excited that they fail to realize they are still having to lure entirely, and the dog is probably mixing the commands up and randomly guessing what position may hold a reward each time.  If the foundation of your training experience with your pup consists of almost constant confusion on the dog's part, it makes more forward progress much less likely.

     Please take time to build a solid foundation with your fur-friend!  For additional help, leave a comment and I would be glad to assist you.

     Happy Training!

The "Tuck" Dog Training

     One of my students and I have been playing a "new" game!  Don't tell Stormi, but it's really the same thing, just asking her to adapt, and rewarding slightly different behaviors.  This method is called "shaping".  Any behavior whether it is desirable or not, can be shaped by rewarding the changes you like, if you time your rewards correctly and consistently.

     Stormi has already mastered her basic commands.  I chose to build on her "Lie Down" command, since I want to encourage her to relax.  She naturally will choose to tuck one front foot, or another when she is lying comfortably.  I rewarded (I used her kibble from meals since she is very food motivated) her for lying down when I looked at her first, so there was a default behavior to start with.  Her entire first session was simply rewarding her for lying down and staying down.  No words, since I would be adding the commands later, when she was performing the actions I wanted.


     The next time I worked with her, she automatically lay down as soon as I brought out the food.  I began to reward her when she shifted her front feet, either one.  Over the next two sessions, she was very willing to move her feet, it almost looked like she was swimming backwards!  Very cute.  I began to label her right and left as she moved them, rewarding each time.  If I stared at one foot, she would move it automatically to tuck.  Many dogs are much more observant than we give them credit for, it helps them to tie in a visual cue along with the verbal.

     The next session, I began asking for "Right" or "Left", looking at the paw I wished her to move.  At this point, she was comfortable with the exercise, and would sometimes just guess, and swing a paw back without paying attention to which one I asked for.  I never rewarded her for moving the wrong paw, simply waiting, staring at the one I asked her to move until she performed correctly.


     Soon I decided I wanted both paws to "Tuck".  Since Stormi is very responsive to my eye movement, I knew she could figure it out!  And she certainly did not disappoint.  We began the session easily, I called a "Right", "Left", "Left" (and rewarded one kibble for each) and then just waited.  I stared at the paw that was closest to me, which she tucked.  But instead of rewarding, I shifted my gaze to her other paw.  She switched, and tucked it.  I shifted my gaze again.  Stormi was confused, and stood up and walked in a circle.  I simply waited.  We went through the same motions again.  After she lay down again with a sigh, she tucked the first paw, I shifted my gaze again... she huffed, and shifted her weight awkwardly.... then moved her other foot!  I quickly dropped several pieces of food and praised!

     From there she proceeded quickly to moving both feet back immediately but they were still not fully tucked.  I "jackpotted" (gave several pieces as reward) many times in a row to encourage her.  Then I began to wean back on the reward until we were at just one piece at a time again.  What had been holding Stormi back is that she had been startling herself by tapping her back foot with her front foot when she "swam" her second paw backwards, because of the way she was laying.  Once she figured out how to maneuver her body to where she could tuck both paws comfortably, she had it!

     The next session, I labeled "Tuck" when both paws were folded.  After that session, it was just a matter of putting it all together- going back to review and strengthen the labels I had already set in place for "Right" and "Left".

     For this particular dog, I like this position because it takes a bit longer for her to jump up should she be startled.  Stormi and her people are still working diligently on her impulse control.  Teaching this position makes her more aware of what her body is doing, and shows her that she can control each part.  And of course, any training that requires thinking, and strengthens the bond between her and her people is not only fun, but a benefit for the dog!

     As always, if you have any questions of comments, please feel free to contact me!

     Happy Training!