Ride Along

    The ice had all melted away, leaving muddy puddles and miniature streams covering the fields by my house.  The solid sheet of sleet that had frozen on my back stoop was twice as slick.  Grace and I slowly slid down the two steps as carefully as we could to the brick patio which had slightly more traction.   We made our way safely to the car, which was nice and toasty thanks to a sweet husband who started it a few minutes earlier.

     The roads were clear thankfully.  Sunlight glittered off of the millions of drops of dissolving icicles plopping merrily from the trees and power lines.  I actually think ice is prettier than snow, it makes things so shiny... until it melts!  I was glad I remembered my sunglasses, but took them off when we drove under the awning at the drive through.

     Grace had made herself comfortable for our trip.  The pups have two towels in the back that always begin the journey neatly spread to cover the back seat.  We pretend that this will protect the seats from getting covered with dog hair.  Brutus likes to use his front feet to flip the towels into a wad that he will circle, circle, circle on top of until it feels "right" for him to nestle down onto.  Grace just kind of flops gracelessly in a "whoomph".

     At each drive through window, she likes to pop her head up and put her nose just behind my left ear.  Perhaps she likes to get a whiff of the voices coming from the windows.  It could also be that she enjoys the varied reactions of the people who see her.  Places we stop by frequently know her and Brutus by name, and greet them more enthusiastically than they do me.  I am not offended- my dogs ARE pretty awesome!

     Finally, the errands are done.  We turn towards home.  I notice a business parking lot that is mostly empty.  That will do just fine for today.  I pull in cautiously, since it doesn't appear to have been salted.  It is important that there is no salt down as it could irritate puppy paws!  I park and pull out a collar and leash.

     Grace sits quietly while I fuss with the collar and leash, switching twice as I changed my mind.  I decided on the "string things"- my thinnest lead and collar.  They are so light they can simulate being off leash, without having to actually have her off lead (leash laws).  I call her out with me and we practice a few heeling patterns.  I tighten up my turns using the foot pattern that was shown to me by a seasoned exhibitor.   Grace plays a statue on command through three different positions of "stay".  Recalls are not perfect, but that is what practice is for!

     Nine minutes later, and we are back in the car.  The heat coming out of the vents is still nice and toasty.  A short while later we are home and cuddling by the fire.

     I try to bring my dogs with me whenever I can.  A training session does not have to be long to be beneficial, and any chance to bond more with my pups, I gladly take!

Resource Guarding

     One of the most common problems I am asked about is resource guarding.  I can not solve your dog's issues from a blog entry.  What I can do, is arm you with enough information to reduce risk to your self, others in your household, and your dog.  I can provide some tips that hopefully prevent further escalation until a professional can be contacted.

  Sometimes guarding is obvious.

     Guarding resources is a basic instinct.  That does not mean it should be permitted when your dog displays discomfort or aggression towards a human or another animal in the household, but understanding that it is a natural reaction is important to keep in mind.  It does not mean your dog is "Aggressive", "Dominant", or needs to be "put in it's place".  I find labels one of the most dangerous things in dealing safely and proactively with dogs who have issues.

     In a perfect world, we would call a behaviorist that we already know and trust, and quickly "solve" the problem behavior.  Reality often deals a different hand- we may have scheduling or funding restrictions, or not be willing to admit that professional help is needed.  Also, the fastest solution is often not a long term one.

     If you have seen behavior in your home that you suspect is resource guarding DO NOT attempt to re-create the situation. As humans, when we are uncertain or unwilling to accept information we ask again.  If you heard a growl when you walked by Fido's food bowl, walking up and sticking your hand in it is an invitation to get bitten.  Repeating something and expecting a different result is one of the definitions of insanity, and can cause escalation in a behavior.

     Call a behaviorist when you first notice the problem.  Asking people on the internet is not the same as consulting with a behaviorist.  Even a dog trainer is often not equipped with enough information for successful behavior modification.  If you do not have the money to invest in a solution immediately, you may be surprised how many professionals are willing to talk to you anyways, and help you stay safe until you can come in.

Body language can display a variety of ways on different dogs.      

     Until a professional has met your dog, the solutions may not be clear.  Every household and dog is different, so different techniques will have greater efficacy per dog, per household.  There is not an easy 1,2,3 step "fix" that I am aware of.

     Your goal is to change something to prevent the behavior from occurring again.  If your dog has already growled, lunged or bitten another dog, separating the dog unless supervised is the first step.  This does not mean total isolation!  Please do not simply put them in their crate or room and hide from them until a professional arrives.

     Remember what resource appears to be triggering the behavior, and ensure that it will not be available to them in the presence of other animals or people.  It is not always easy to identify- it can be a place or person.  If it is a toy, bone or treat,  that is very easy- simply put it away behind a closed door where the dog cannot access it.  If it is meals be sure to feed when you and the dog are the only ones around, and put small amounts of food down at a time, allowing the dog to finish before you add more.  If you have children, it is recommended that any interaction between them and the dog is minimized and closely supervised.  The key is to be SAFE, not sorry!

     If you think you may have a resource guarding issue in your home, please feel free to contact me, and I will help you.

Potty Basics: To Go or Not To Go

*** Please see below for photo credits

    Did you know some responsible breeders start potty training exercises with their pups at as early as 3 weeks of age?  By the time their dogs are sent to new loving homes, they already have grasped the basic principles of eliminating outside!

     Most of us are not so fortunate.  We arrive home with our furry bundle of joy, and have to clean up not so pleasant puddles or smelly surprises a few times before our four-footed family members learn where to "go".

     Here are a few tips to help with potty training your new (or slightly confused) companion!


~Remember the times when a dog will naturally need to eliminate: when first waking up (even from a short nap), when full of food or water, after vigorous play or exercise, and additional times depending on age and bladder size.

~ Clean for Real.   You can't smell a thing?  The stain is out of the carpet? Great, but Fido has a much more sensitive sniffer!  If you are not using an enzymatic cleanser (one that lists "enzymes" in the ingredients), you are not killing the pheromones, which are the scent markers that tell your dog that this is an appealing place to go because it has been used before.

*** Please see below for photo credits

~Know when they are full.  When is the last time your dog ate?  How about the last time they drank  water?  By having assigned feeding times, and putting the water dish where you can easily see when they drink will help you know when your dog is full, and needs to be emptied.

~Learn your dog's cues.  Almost every dog gives signals when they have to eliminate.  Some dogs discreetly sniff, some circle, some pace, some just get really anxious and jittery.  You will need to learn what your dog does so you can get them outside to where they are supposed to do it, or they will not be able to learn that is what you want.  Once the pattern of going outside to potty has started, then you can add your own cue (such as bells at the door).  If you try to add your own cue too early, you have a very good possibility of simply training your dog that the cue means going outside to play (and nothing to do with potty).

~Don't spend too long outside waiting.  Go directly to one area in your yard where you would like them to eliminate and stand quietly.  No talking to them, no playing.  You probably want to have them on a leash at first even if you have a fenced in yard, or you will have no way to keep them from turning "potty time" into "game time".  If your pup does not use the bathroom after a few minutes, it's not the end of the world.  Just go back inside and continue life as normal while watching for your dog's cues.

~REWARD!!!  As soon as they begin to eliminate, quietly praise (who likes to be shouted at while using the toilet?) and be sure to follow up that praise with a yummy treat!  After your treat, then you can have that great walk, fun game of fetch, or other rewarding activity!  Never punish for a potty mistake.  This is not only unfair to the dog (YOU were supposed to get them outside), but can set your potty training backwards- since they probably won't want to go potty in front of you again!

*** Please see below for photo credits

~Minimize opportunity for accidents.  If your dog is still having accidents, WATCH THEM.  If you cannot keep your eyes on them, they need to be in a safe place, such as a crate, or puppy safe room or pen.

~If you are having trouble with one particular area (they always "Oops" in the same spot), after you have properly cleaned it with an enzymatic cleanser, feed them there for several days.  It is unnatural for an animal to want to eliminate where it habitually eats (do you know anyone with a toilet on their dining room table?).



     These are just a few basics.  If you would like help setting specific goals for your puppy or dog, please feel free to contact me.

     Happy training!



*** All photos used in this entry are courtesy of the Greater Charlotte SPCA.  Please feel free to check out their website!   www.charlotteSPCA.org 

Back to Basics: Luring, Catching and Shaping

     Every dog needs a solid foundation to understand what it is that humans want it to do.  All too often, I see how basic skill sets are glossed over.  The process of learning is rushed to achieve an end result that is not as consistent because of the lack of understanding on the human side of the leash.  By fully understanding not only how to train for a specific command, but why it works, a handler can strengthen their own handling skills and improve the communication overall with their dog.  This paves the way for future successful learning, which we know happens throughout entire lifetimes.

Grace, Brutus and Riley

     Three of the most basic training methods in the positive reinforcement category (and every dog should start in this quadrant of Operant Conditioning) are Luring, Catching, and Shaping.  If you have taught your dog any basic commands (such as "sit", "down" or "come") you have had to use at least one of these!  If your timing is consistent with the reward, your dog can perform the behaviors.

     Luring is exactly what it sounds like.  You are presenting a tasty (and hopefully healthy) reward and using it to guide the dog to where you would like them to be, or where you would like the body to be (such as bringing the food above the nose for "sit").  When the dog is in the correct place/position, the treat and praise are earned!  Seems simple, yes?  It can be, if it is repeated often enough for the dog to associate the correct result- otherwise, the dog has simply learned to follow food held in your hands (which is also a helpful skill, but not always the desired result).  If your handling skills are not fully developed, you may have difficulty getting your dog to the correct position consistently.  Practice makes perfect, but this is one instance where there is a definite advantage to having an experienced handler to help you.

     Catching a behavior is solely dependent on the handler's attention and timing.  Any behavior your pet performs naturally can become a command using this method, if you can "catch" and reward them doing it often enough.  I always train for a default "Down" in my dogs.  When I do not tell them to do anything, I would prefer for them to lie down and relax.  To train for this, every time I see them lying down, I give a treat (in my case, it is kibble, but they think of their food as treats), name the behavior, and praise.  When Brutus was young and we were just beginning with the "Default Down", as he began to understand the behavior I was rewarding, he would follow me from room to room and lie down and pretend to sleep to get a piece of food.  Now it is less obvious (he no longer collapses in front of my feet), but he still will lie quietly inside until I tell him otherwise (he is now 7 and 1/2 years old)

     Shaping is considered the most difficult by some because it requires more patience.  To shape a behavior is to reward something that is close to what you want, and then gradually change when you are rewarding to encourage different elements in the behavior originally rewarded for.  Often, luring and catching are used while shaping a behavior.  An example would be to teach your dog "Paw" or "High Five", you may initially reward for the dog just having the paw in the air and allowing you to touch the foot, but you gradually make the dog put the paw in/on your hand by withholding the reward for slightly longer periods of time.

     For the last two methods (Catching and Shaping) many people use a "Clicker".  A clicker is a small box with a thin sheet of metal that makes a soft popping noise (or click) when pressed.  I personally choose to use my voice.  Not only is it one less thing to hold, but I can change the tone, volume or emphasis in my word of praise to really communicate how happy I am to the dog I am working with.

     The clip above is me with a rescue dog "Peanut", who did very very learning the basics!  I used catching to teach the "sit", and added a hand signal.  The "Down" is still being learned, and I lured to get him in the position.  And lastly, I was shaping the "Wait" command to add more distance away from him.

     The most common pitfall I see students struggle with is thinking they are "done" teaching a command too soon.  After a few repetitions, the human adds another command or two.  The next day, another few commands.  The handler is so excited that they fail to realize they are still having to lure entirely, and the dog is probably mixing the commands up and randomly guessing what position may hold a reward each time.  If the foundation of your training experience with your pup consists of almost constant confusion on the dog's part, it makes more forward progress much less likely.

     Please take time to build a solid foundation with your fur-friend!  For additional help, leave a comment and I would be glad to assist you.

     Happy Training!

The "Tuck" Dog Training

     One of my students and I have been playing a "new" game!  Don't tell Stormi, but it's really the same thing, just asking her to adapt, and rewarding slightly different behaviors.  This method is called "shaping".  Any behavior whether it is desirable or not, can be shaped by rewarding the changes you like, if you time your rewards correctly and consistently.

     Stormi has already mastered her basic commands.  I chose to build on her "Lie Down" command, since I want to encourage her to relax.  She naturally will choose to tuck one front foot, or another when she is lying comfortably.  I rewarded (I used her kibble from meals since she is very food motivated) her for lying down when I looked at her first, so there was a default behavior to start with.  Her entire first session was simply rewarding her for lying down and staying down.  No words, since I would be adding the commands later, when she was performing the actions I wanted.


     The next time I worked with her, she automatically lay down as soon as I brought out the food.  I began to reward her when she shifted her front feet, either one.  Over the next two sessions, she was very willing to move her feet, it almost looked like she was swimming backwards!  Very cute.  I began to label her right and left as she moved them, rewarding each time.  If I stared at one foot, she would move it automatically to tuck.  Many dogs are much more observant than we give them credit for, it helps them to tie in a visual cue along with the verbal.

     The next session, I began asking for "Right" or "Left", looking at the paw I wished her to move.  At this point, she was comfortable with the exercise, and would sometimes just guess, and swing a paw back without paying attention to which one I asked for.  I never rewarded her for moving the wrong paw, simply waiting, staring at the one I asked her to move until she performed correctly.


     Soon I decided I wanted both paws to "Tuck".  Since Stormi is very responsive to my eye movement, I knew she could figure it out!  And she certainly did not disappoint.  We began the session easily, I called a "Right", "Left", "Left" (and rewarded one kibble for each) and then just waited.  I stared at the paw that was closest to me, which she tucked.  But instead of rewarding, I shifted my gaze to her other paw.  She switched, and tucked it.  I shifted my gaze again.  Stormi was confused, and stood up and walked in a circle.  I simply waited.  We went through the same motions again.  After she lay down again with a sigh, she tucked the first paw, I shifted my gaze again... she huffed, and shifted her weight awkwardly.... then moved her other foot!  I quickly dropped several pieces of food and praised!

     From there she proceeded quickly to moving both feet back immediately but they were still not fully tucked.  I "jackpotted" (gave several pieces as reward) many times in a row to encourage her.  Then I began to wean back on the reward until we were at just one piece at a time again.  What had been holding Stormi back is that she had been startling herself by tapping her back foot with her front foot when she "swam" her second paw backwards, because of the way she was laying.  Once she figured out how to maneuver her body to where she could tuck both paws comfortably, she had it!

     The next session, I labeled "Tuck" when both paws were folded.  After that session, it was just a matter of putting it all together- going back to review and strengthen the labels I had already set in place for "Right" and "Left".

     For this particular dog, I like this position because it takes a bit longer for her to jump up should she be startled.  Stormi and her people are still working diligently on her impulse control.  Teaching this position makes her more aware of what her body is doing, and shows her that she can control each part.  And of course, any training that requires thinking, and strengthens the bond between her and her people is not only fun, but a benefit for the dog!

     As always, if you have any questions of comments, please feel free to contact me!

     Happy Training!

Protection Dog?

     A young woman was telling me a story about how wonderful her dog is to her.  She proudly stated that "[the dog] is so protective of me, he almost wouldn't let my husband in the house the other night!"  She went on to explain that her husband had gone out earlier that evening with some friends and the friends dropped him off later that night in a different vehicle.  Her dog started "...going crazy!" she explained.  "He was barking loud and running around the house.  I tried to tell him 'It's okay, Daddy's home!' but when I went to the door, he darted out and then looped around and jumped up on me to push me back into the house!"

     In working with dogs for years, I often come across people who are absurdly proud of a dog they view as "protective" who is actually displaying overt tendencies of possession, fear, or inverted dominance.  It makes me believe that there is an overall misconception of terms as they apply to canine behavior.  The reason this concerns me is that the behaviors encouraged and elicited as "protective" are often the cause for the dog to display tendencies that are unwanted or can even be dangerous to the owner or other people and animals present.

     Dogs who carry an actual title of "Protection Dog" have had years of training with experienced handlers.  In the right hands, these dogs are the least likely to "go crazy" and panic at the sight or sound of new stimuli.

     One way to distinguish if a dog is actually being "protective" is to determine if the owner was truly frightened or angry.  If so, then there was a huge chemical surge that the dog could detect, and would know was out of the ordinary.  Another point to examine is if the owner gave a command for the dog to vocalize and/or move forward towards the perceived threat.  If the dog was acting at the behest of the handler, the motions would not appear frenzied and panicked.  Obviously if the dog is physically causing any harm to the owner it is not a desirable behavior, and should not be labeled as "protective".

     I do agree that a dog can be a deterrent to a would-be burglar or robber, but there are other ways to achieve this without allowing the dog to reach a state of panic.  Teaching a dog to bark or growl on command can be useful for this.  Simply using basic obedience to send a dog several yards out (towards the threat) and sit/stay facing the stranger can be very intimidating also to a would-be aggressor.

     For more information about YOUR dog's behavior, please feel free to contact me!  pawsthenplay@gmail.com

www.PawsThenPlay.com

A Dog Training Game

A healthy treat and random object for the game.

    In a previous post, I mentioned making training into a game (One Step Forward, Two Steps Back published July 9, 2012. Click here to read it.).

     One of my students and two of you wonderful readers have taken the time to inquire about some examples of games to play to train your dogs.  Here is a versatile exercise that can be tailored to any dog that is food motivated.

     Regardless of your dog's training background, you can have a training session in this style.  You will need a yummy, high-value treat, and a dog-safe object.  I choose objects that are non-toxic, with no sharp edges, that are durable, not too big or too small, cheap/readily available to me, but not something my dog is familiar with.  For the exercise today I chose a metal ring that is a lid to a mason jar, and freeze-dried liver treats.

     Toby is a 10 year old Cocker Spaniel that was a conformation show Champion in his youth!  Although he was socialized very well, is an angel for grooming and still auto-stacks (goes into his "Show Pose"); not a lot of time was spent on his basic obedience.  After he was retired from the show circuit, he was taught to sit, and lie down several years ago.

No initial interest. I had to wait a few seconds.

     The first step is to introduce the object, and make it inviting for your dog to investigate it.  At this point, very few  words are used.  I placed food inside the ring, which led Toby to sniff it.  Every time he sniffed at it, I said "Yes!" and fed him.  I was teaching him "Yes!" equals food, and the action of sniffing the ring made me say "Yes!".   I would let him sniff, say "Yes!" and feed 3-5 times in a row, and then take the ring back and put it on the table while I broke up some more treats into tiny pieces.  Then I placed the ring back on the ground and repeated the exercise until as soon as I put the ring down, he was immediately sniffing it.

     Once Toby was very interested in the ring, I placed it on the ground, and let him sniff it, but remained silent.  At first he just stared at me expecting the "Yes" and food.  I kept staring at the ring.  He appeared to lose interest, so I put the ring away for a few minutes, and we took a potty break.

     When we came back inside, I placed the ring on the ground.  Toby went forward immediately!  He sniffed, and looked at me, then kicked it with his foot!  I said "Yes!" and rewarded with 2 pieces of food!  The significance is not what he did, it is the fact that he is adapting, and trying to problem-solve!  Some dogs use their paws to manipulate the object, some their mouths. (Grace is a mouther- she prefers to carry it)

Toby is definitely interested now!

     I let Toby cycle through several rounds of touching the ring with his foot, and being rewarded.  He soon evolved to rushing forward with both feet ending up on the ring.  Now I just needed to decide which motion I like the best, and feed only for that one.  To start with, since he seemed to always move the ring towards him by pouncing on it with both feet, I decided to only reward for a softer motion, putting both paws on the ring, but not pouncing.

     It took a few sessions to accomplish this because at first he just ignored the ring if he did not get rewarded immediately for pouncing.  It ended up as a slower motion for each paw, almost like swimming, and then just some soft "pats" with his paws.  It was inconsistent, but settled into a right-left-right pattern.  The more confident he became that the answer was correct, the more times he would "pat".

Toby with his foot in the ring!

     It is perfectly normal and okay for a dog to need to take a break!  This is set up like a logic puzzle, but with less structure.  There is always more than one correct answer, so the odds are in the favor of your dog.  I love playing these types of "Games" with dogs because it gives such insight to their behavior.  Poor Toby can give up easily sometimes (his sessions are only about 2-4 minutes at a time), but rebounds very quickly! He is very eager to please, and if he gets a short rest is very willing to pick up just where he left off!  We have already done 5 sessions this morning.

     Now Toby can consistently touch the ring with gentle pats.  I thought it looked very cute, like he was doing little dance steps!  I decided to name it "Fancy Feet".  To label the action, I wait for him to perform it and said the words "Fancy Feet!" and fed.  We did this several times, it was adorable! After a few sessions of labeling, I took out the ring, and told him "Fancy Feet"! Results so far are below!  I think I may tie this in with a foot motion from the handler, so it looks like we are dancing together!  Wish us luck!



     Happy Training my friends! And as always, please feel free to contact me and/or leave a comment!  I love hearing your feedback!

   

Additional Tips and Facts:
- Be patient! Do not talk to your dog too much during this or you will confuse them (and make little, or no progress).
- Dogs will retain the information at different rates, and according to the skill and timing you as a handler possess.
- Instead of the word "Yes!" another word or a clicker can be substituted.
- If your dog is staring at your hand and ignoring the object, try rubbing the object with the food (to make it smell more appealing), and then throwing the bits of treat down to the object when your dog sniffs it, instead of hand feeding.
- If you are not sure what objects would be good, it's ok to start with one of your dog's toys.
- Any motion that your dog gives can be eventually labeled, and then performed on command.
- The more often you play "guessing games" like this, the more creative your dog's responses will become!
- Some dogs do not prefer the taste or texture of metal, or wood, or paper products, or plastics.  You will have to experiment a bit to see what material to start with for your dog.
- If you prefer to shape for a tap with the foot, the object you choose shouldn't matter, but if you would like your dog to carry the item, you will want to start with an object they are comfortable with.

     To read about Grace's experience with this game, click here. 

Having a "Crate" time!

I thought it may be helpful to share a bit about how to allow your dog OUT of a crate, to give yourself the most opportunity for a stress-free walk. So many issues can be prevented by crate manners! Starting each day out on the right paw can remind everyone involved how wonderful dog ownership should be!

First thing in the morning, many people are in a hurry. We have places to be- work, school or other appointments that are time sensitive! Don't let your stress transfer to your pup. Having a routine that emphasizes calm from the moment your pup steps out of the crate ensures your dog has the proper attitude for interaction and exercise throughout the day.

Below is a video of a student named Peanut.

I use minimal vocal commands, so it becomes a routine that the dog must memorize. In the mornings, I am not always thinking clearly myself, so less words means less confusion.

The dog must be calm before I even open the door. I wait until Peanut lays down before opening the door (the first day, I gave the command so he knew what I wanted. After that, he knew and just did it automatically when I approached.). He then must wait patiently for me to put the leash on (which takes a few seconds when I am also recording). I invite him out, and we walk right past my other dog (this took practice too!).

At the door, I wait for him to sit (again, the first day I told him what I wanted, after that I expect it). Then we go on our walk!

Please feel free to contact me if you would like help initiating a routine for your dog too!

pawsthenplay@gmail.com

One Step Forward, Two Steps Back

"Silver" Photographed by Thomas Brown

     We are enthused to introduce our new puppy to the basics!  The first few days are a rush of new and exciting experiences for everyone involved.  How impressive that within the first few hours that tiny ball of fur can already "Sit" on command!  We see our new baby as perfect!

     Some of us can get pretty flustered when that same adorable furbaby seems unwilling to learn other concepts that we find pretty simple.  It is simple to us because we have had years to adapt to and learn from our society.  We speak the language and understand what is being asked of us.  Our body language is ideal for communicating with other HUMANS, and when we are frustrated we can often send mixed signals to our pups.  Training is about building a bridge of communication both ways.  If, as a handler we can learn how to better send our messages, teaching becomes more enjoyable for all involved.

     There are several reasons why periods of regression occur.

     As humans we are amused by novelty.  When the puppy has just come home, we are light of mood, and much better teachers!  It is very easy to forget that there are many things our new family member is adjusting to.  To expect perfect retention and recall of information from such a young doggie mind can yield mixed results unless you are limiting the amount of commands, and staying consistent.  The more relaxed a puppy becomes in a new environment, the more it may want to explore, thus it can be more easily distracted at times.  Frustration from a handler can be clearly understood by a puppy, and will make it less likely to respond.  Just because a puppy is larger (the most dramatic growth phase is within the first 6 months), does not mean it is not still a puppy!

     Dogs also grow through developmental stages.  As your puppy grows, it will discover that it can run faster, jump higher, and possibly bark or climb too.  Mentally, there is also progress made, and it is well known that dogs can be excellent problem solvers!  If hopping up and licking your face when given the command for "Sit" also earns attention, that new behavior can quickly replace the previously learned one!  Some breeds are more likely to test different behaviors (German Shepherds will normally try out barking as an alert/attention-getter around 4 months of age for example.), so if you are not sure what to expect, consult with your trainer or a Behaviorist.

     Humans tend to over-emphasize puberty and adolescence in canines, instead of recognizing that testing commands is only to be sure that they are fully understood.  If a different reaction is given from the handler, then the dog may consider the previous command as different, and discard the former behavior as no longer rewarding.  If the environment itself responds differently, your puppy may also learn to link unwanted behaviors to the stimulus present (for example, when other dogs are present, if you do not insist upon the "sit" command being followed and allow play time, the pup may learn to disregard your commands in the presence of other dogs).

"Riley" photographed by Thomas Brown

     Think back to when YOU were in school.  There are probably things you had to learn that you have difficulty recalling, and it is because these are the skills you no longer use in your daily life.  There are also behaviors that you have modified to suit your tastes, needs or desires (does anyone drive at exactly the speed limit all the time?).  Your dog will also learn to adapt.  Commands that you allow to "slide" will loose consistency.  If your training sessions are less frequent, or less rewarding, the behavior from your dog will be less reliable.

     One technique I use often with my own dogs, and my students, is to turn training into a game.  Most humans go through a mental shift when they are expecting to play a game (=expecting to have fun!).  This mood-lightener has an almost immediate effect on the dog!  With Grace, I play fetch to keep many skills current (run where I tell you to, sit, down, recall, front, hold the object, release the object, heel off leash, work accurately under distraction).

     One of my students was having troubles with walking her dog.  The dog was pulling forward constantly, and then barking and lunging at other dogs.  I showed her how I normally walked with dogs, not in a straight boring line, but I sometimes walk quickly, then very slowly, or stop!  I can even walk backwards unexpectedly!  I was sure to briefly verbally recognize the dog when it turned or slowed pace to stay even with me ("Good!").  When I re-introduced the walking exercises as a game- and she saw how fun and interactive it could be, we were able to have a great time, and even took a walk with my dog along as well.

*More tips and training bits to come! Keep checking back regularly to learn more!