Dog Body Language: A Snapshot

     Yesterday I posted a picture on the Facebook page of 3 Rottweilers.   I asked readers to share what they thought the dogs were really trying to communicate with their body language.  To my delight, 3 clever ladies stepped forth with wonderful answers.

    

     Above is the picture with the flippant caption.  My explanation is a similar echo of the ladies bold enough to post responses.  Like them I have spent years around dogs.  I have trained multiple breeds in a wide variety of circumstances.  When one has hands on the leash and only a second to respond to body language while applying pressure in the form of commands or expectations reading body language becomes a critical skill to avoid undue stress in the animal or at worst, a bite.  No back story is necessary to decode body language.

     The dog in the center is clearly the most attentive to the photographer and on alert, but not necessarily "unhappy" about anything.   The mouth appears a bit tense but it is not puckered to show teeth or growl.  Not only because it is the largest is it receiving attention from the other two, but because it has the most confidence in this particular situation.  It is undaunted by the staged photo, and dogs will gravitate to the one who is willing to take control of a situation.

     The dog on the left is clearly the most uncomfortable.  It is offering obvious submission and a plea for guidance with the licking of the mouth of the center dog.  Licking of it's own mouth would show some anxiety, the application of the action to the other dog is a request.

     The dog on the right is just observing the calmly.  It has a soft open mouth, soft eyes.  The posture suggests it may have been considering laying down or he could just be young and awkward.  Not only is he smaller than the center dog, but sitting lower to avoid any unintended conflict with the dog in the center.

   

*For more fun learning, please stop by the Facebook page at www.facebook.com/pawsthenplay
or feel free to e-mail me directly at PawsThenPlay@gmail.com with any dog training or behavioral inquiries.

I just met you, and this is crazy.....

     I had a person ask me this morning "Do you have a blog on dog etiquette? Specifically when people go to a house with dogs and when people have children and the dog goes to it's [place]."

Roxy the Malamute

     There are so many elements that can be addressed with this issue!  I will try to focus on what a careful owner can do to keep their dog secure.

     I used to think not touching strange dogs was a "No-brainer" until I reached adulthood and began taking my dogs with me to places.  People I have never met have walked or run directly up and tried to pet or hug my dog.  I have learned to create safe areas in my home where my dogs can go to relax and guests are not allowed to invade.  In public I have learned to be willing to stand up for myself, and teach people how to respect dog's space.  Unfortunately, some lessons I have learned have been through trial and error.  By sharing, hopefully you all can benefit from my experiences in the past.

       To start: It is my responsibility as a caring pet owner to preserve my animals' trust in me.  To allow an animal to be put in a situation that could cause a growl, snap or bite can have devastating consequences emotionally and legally.  As a sentient being I expect to not be fondled by complete strangers.  I insist on the same respect for my dogs.

     At my home, I control the environment.  If my dogs are asleep, do not bother them.  Just because me and my husband can, does not mean I expect them to tolerate it from strangers.  If I see signs of stress in my dogs I allow them to go to their designated safe areas.   Not all dogs want to be overly affectionate with strangers.  Both of my dogs have been Therapy tested (and passed).  This does not mean I expect them to make out with total strangers all the time.  Even Therapy Dogs need time to relax!  It is my job to oversee any interactions to be sure my pups are behaving, not crowding, barking or jumping on my guests.  It is also my duty to be sure my guests are being polite and not teasing or hurting my dogs (I have found small children have quite a "pinch" when they grasp things).

     One of the safe areas for my pups is in a spare bedroom where I will close the door to make my intentions clear.  There is no reason for a guest to be wandering into our bedrooms unaccompanied, thus it ensures my dogs do not become stressed when people come over, since they have seen it demonstrated repeatedly that they have a safe haven.  It can also avoid awkward conversations with folks who are not very dog savvy.  I have had guests over who do not even realize that there are multiple dogs in the household.

Luca the American Eskimo Dog

     When in public, a person should ALWAYS ask to pet.  No exceptions.  My dogs have a strong foundation in basic obedience before they are allowed in public, so when I stop moving, they stop with me.  For the people who run up to my dogs, I will literally move in front and block the person (if needed, I put my hand up extended in the classic "STOP" open palm).  If they do not recall their manners, I will prompt them with a friendly "Did you want to ask to pet my dogs?"  If they appear young, I insist they retrieve their parents first.  If they are inattentive or rude I will not allow them to touch my dogs.

     So often as dog handlers we forget we have the freedom to walk away.  I worked with a gal years ago who allowed a polite young child to pet her dog.  The child began playing with her male dog's er..... nether part.  The parent was nowhere to be seen.  Thank goodness her dog is so tolerant (the gal is an excellent handler), but situations like this can mostly be prevented, and if not, managed.  Don't feel obligated to allow someone to do something to your dog that makes you feel uncomfortable (I am referring to an acquaintance or stranger here, not your Veterinarian).  If you are uncomfortable saying "No" or "Stop" blatantly, you can always just leave hurriedly explaining that you forgot you had an appointment (I have used that one myself).

     Lastly, try to be patient with people.  Each interaction is an opportunity to educate.  My own family did not understand at first why I sometimes seemed to "hide my dogs from them".  Before I met my former mentor, I did not really have a concept of a "Working Dog" other than a dog who serves in the Military or guides the blind.  Pass some knowledge on if you can, and you could make the world a safer place for dogs.

   

Proactive versus Reactive Dog Training

     Have you ever wondered how to correct or punish an undesirable behavior in your dog?  I see dozens of people posting on websites daily to vent their frustrations.  Almost every dog owner has had to deal with issues before, so here is one option that may help.

Photo courtesy of the Greater Charlotte SPCA

     Change how you are thinking about the problem.  A question I see posed very often is "How do I correct my dog for  ________?"  That means you have already acknowledged that the undesired event will occur again.  The Oxford Dictionary defines "Reactive" as "acting in response to a situation instead of creating or controlling it."    If you do not have control over the situation or environment that created the undesirable behavior, then you need to consider removing the dog (and possibly yourself) from it altogether.

     If instead we focus on what can be done to prevent a repetition of the behavior, not only does this course of action yield more consistent results, but the bond between human and canine remains unclouded by misused or misunderstood gestures of "punishment" or "correction".

     If your 4 month old puppy suddenly begins chewing on your couch cushions instead of his/her own toys, a "correction" should not be what you first seek.  At that age, the dog does not yet know what is or is not allowed.  It has not been alive long enough to establish consistent patterns, and is (hopefully) learning new behaviors every day for which it is getting praised.  Punishment should not be the first choice of responses.

     Consider instead what else can be done to prevent the situation, or to change it if it is occurring.  A new rule of "No puppies on the couch" may be all that is needed to remedy the rouge chewing.  The couch as a resting place can always be introduced later as a reward.  I find leaving a leash on if the pup is loose in the house is an easy way to help restrict them from choice areas.  Spend more time praising your dog for behaviors that you like seeing.

Maple and Morgan hanging out in the sun

     Knowing that chewing is another way for dogs to release energy, increasing exercise should be another option.  Add an extra training session during the day.  Play fetch.  Record a movie of your dog performing all the tricks it knows and send it to your friends.  Go for a walk.  Visit a pet store.  Learn a new skill.  The options are endless.  A tired dog will chew significantly less.

     If cuddling on the couch always leads to a cushion in the mouth, and you just don't want to sacrifice the warm fuzzy feeling of your pup on the couch, consider keeping a stash of toys within reach.  As soon as Fido's nose goes toward the cushion, put a toy under that nose!  If you were not paying attention, missed your timing, and are still unwilling to put the pup on the ground, you need to be willing to have some drool and missing pieces of couch cushion.

     For help with proactive thinking and training, please feel free to contact me directly at pawsthenplay@gmail.com

     Happy Training!

   

The "Tuck" Dog Training

     One of my students and I have been playing a "new" game!  Don't tell Stormi, but it's really the same thing, just asking her to adapt, and rewarding slightly different behaviors.  This method is called "shaping".  Any behavior whether it is desirable or not, can be shaped by rewarding the changes you like, if you time your rewards correctly and consistently.

     Stormi has already mastered her basic commands.  I chose to build on her "Lie Down" command, since I want to encourage her to relax.  She naturally will choose to tuck one front foot, or another when she is lying comfortably.  I rewarded (I used her kibble from meals since she is very food motivated) her for lying down when I looked at her first, so there was a default behavior to start with.  Her entire first session was simply rewarding her for lying down and staying down.  No words, since I would be adding the commands later, when she was performing the actions I wanted.


     The next time I worked with her, she automatically lay down as soon as I brought out the food.  I began to reward her when she shifted her front feet, either one.  Over the next two sessions, she was very willing to move her feet, it almost looked like she was swimming backwards!  Very cute.  I began to label her right and left as she moved them, rewarding each time.  If I stared at one foot, she would move it automatically to tuck.  Many dogs are much more observant than we give them credit for, it helps them to tie in a visual cue along with the verbal.

     The next session, I began asking for "Right" or "Left", looking at the paw I wished her to move.  At this point, she was comfortable with the exercise, and would sometimes just guess, and swing a paw back without paying attention to which one I asked for.  I never rewarded her for moving the wrong paw, simply waiting, staring at the one I asked her to move until she performed correctly.


     Soon I decided I wanted both paws to "Tuck".  Since Stormi is very responsive to my eye movement, I knew she could figure it out!  And she certainly did not disappoint.  We began the session easily, I called a "Right", "Left", "Left" (and rewarded one kibble for each) and then just waited.  I stared at the paw that was closest to me, which she tucked.  But instead of rewarding, I shifted my gaze to her other paw.  She switched, and tucked it.  I shifted my gaze again.  Stormi was confused, and stood up and walked in a circle.  I simply waited.  We went through the same motions again.  After she lay down again with a sigh, she tucked the first paw, I shifted my gaze again... she huffed, and shifted her weight awkwardly.... then moved her other foot!  I quickly dropped several pieces of food and praised!

     From there she proceeded quickly to moving both feet back immediately but they were still not fully tucked.  I "jackpotted" (gave several pieces as reward) many times in a row to encourage her.  Then I began to wean back on the reward until we were at just one piece at a time again.  What had been holding Stormi back is that she had been startling herself by tapping her back foot with her front foot when she "swam" her second paw backwards, because of the way she was laying.  Once she figured out how to maneuver her body to where she could tuck both paws comfortably, she had it!

     The next session, I labeled "Tuck" when both paws were folded.  After that session, it was just a matter of putting it all together- going back to review and strengthen the labels I had already set in place for "Right" and "Left".

     For this particular dog, I like this position because it takes a bit longer for her to jump up should she be startled.  Stormi and her people are still working diligently on her impulse control.  Teaching this position makes her more aware of what her body is doing, and shows her that she can control each part.  And of course, any training that requires thinking, and strengthens the bond between her and her people is not only fun, but a benefit for the dog!

     As always, if you have any questions of comments, please feel free to contact me!

     Happy Training!

Tales of Tails

     Growing up, I recall being told that a wagging tail meant a happy dog.  Now I know how overly simplified that statement is.  The truth is, the tail movement is only a small part of the communication of canines.

     How rapidly the tail is moving tells the intensity of the dog.  A rapidly moving tail indicates a high energy level.  The tail (or lack thereof) can move the entire body with it (have you ever seen a boxer "Kidney Bean"?).

     The set of the tail is just as important as the quickness of movement.  A high set tail indicates a lot of confidence in the situation.  I always picture a Husky for a high set tail example.  Many people do not realize that the Husky tail can also go down far enough to tuck under it's belly.  A tail that extends straight out along the back line (perpendicular to the ground) indicates an even-tempered reaction, and is desirable.



     The tail can also twitch back and forth in a stilted motion.  When it does this it is very stiff, and almost like a metronome.  This signal of extreme annoyance and stress can be a precursor to aggression.

     When you are teaching a new concept, it is normal to see the tail slightly lower when the dog is being fully attentive and submissive.  As the dog becomes more familiar with the concept and better at performing it, the confidence will rise and with it the tail.

     The tail is only a part of the full picture.  Overall body position, vocalizations and other movements will combine to give the full story.

     Pay attention to your dog's tail next time you are interacting with them!  If when you play fetch the tail is straight up in the air like a flag and waving wildly, that may be why it is harder for them to focus on other commands right then.  The tail can give you an idea of why they are acting the way they are!

     *To learn more, please feel free to contact me

Learning Curve

     Did you realize that every experience your dog has, it is learning from? Like humans, dogs are constantly learning throughout their lives, not just when they are young (although it is easier for dogs and humans to learn new skills at a young age). Anything new can trigger a new behavior pattern.

     If you take a moment to reflect, you will see it. Take for example, a dog that will not allow you to touch it's feet. Sometimes, it is simply life experience that has taught it that "If I make those grumbly noises and show my teeth, people will just leave me alone." Another example, have you ever bragged about how smart your dog is when they learned picking up the leash meant going for a walk? It is not something you went out of your way to show them, the dog has the ability to connect one action with a specific consequence whether or not you are taking the time to emphasize the connection. It has nothing to do with intelligence (most dogs actually have similiar IQs according to studies) but with motivation for the consequence.

("If I sit up like THIS, people notice me!)

     Canines have long amazed us and made stellar companions mainly due to this ability of adaptive learning. Where sometimes it may go awry, is when we as humans forget that training never ends. A dog that has been exposed to a set of undesirable behaviors can try them out a few days, weeks, or months later at home. Even a highly motivated dog who has an impressive vocabulary can forget terms that are not consistently used and rewarded.

     Through our daily interactions, dogs learn the crucial elements for harmony in their given household. If you ever wonder why your dog is an angel when you are home alone with it, and an absolute hooligan whenever guests arrive, consider how much time you spend practicing when there are other people in your home. Actions and occurrences that do not happen with as much frequency can make it more difficult for your dog to determine what behavior is correct. Couple this confusion with the fact that your actions most likely change at least slightly when another person or distraction is present, and it makes perfect sense that your canine's behavior would deviate from the norm.

     So next time you notice your dog doing something you may not particularly be fond of, consider where they may have learned this behavior from.....