Off-Leash Versus On-Leash

     So many of us are very impressed with dogs that are off leash.  We see advertisements for "Off-Leash Training", or envy the person we drive by with their dog walking freely by their side.  Many of us even set a goal to be free of our tethers too!  While it is a worthy goal, please people, take it with a grain of salt- not all that glitters is gold.

     It can be an advantage to have a leash on a dog.  Some public areas require a leash by law.  Other places may be inherently dangerous without one- such as heavy traffic areas, to help protect a dog from sniffing or eating hazardous materials, or to keep your pet safe from other outside influences.

     One of the side effects of being off-leash the majority of the time, is the dog will not react favorably to being on leash when it must be.  The dog may sulk and show it's non-acceptance by walking with it's head down low, laying down and refusing to move, or darting (back and forth, up and down, or all directions!).  I often see this non-acceptance in puppies who have been allowed to roam off-leash for several weeks while they are young.

     Walking on a leash without darting or tangling is one of the most valuable and underrated skills dogs can master.  It involves many layers.  The dog must accept that the human is in charge of where they are going, and how quickly they will arrive.  The dog must have the muscle control and understanding of where to place it's feet to avoid tangles.  Both of these are part of a recipe for successful long lasting training.  To skimp on this conditioning is to make life more difficult and stressful for the pet and the owner.  A dog who fully accepts a handler's role will look to the handler in a brand new situation, or default to a position that training has re-enforced as opposed to barking, growling, lunging forward, or hiding.

     As always, happy training!

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Leash Length

Grace has on a 4ft leash, and Brutus has a 6ft leash.

   If you've ever wandered down the "Leash Aisle" of a pet store, your senses have probably been assaulted by every imaginable color, shape, material, size and length of leash available.  Before you wander the aisle, it helps to have a specific goal in mind.  By choosing the correct leash type, you can make your training experience much easier!  When a dog has been taught how to walk on leash properly, it will feel like there is not a dog there at all. 



     Many people pose the question to me "Why do I need a leash right now if my puppy stays right at my feet?".  A young or insecure dog will often suction to their handler in the beginning, but eventually distraction and exploration takes place, and a leash can prevent them from undesirable behaviors, as well as keep them safe.  The behavioral ramifications are more difficult to overcome.  By choosing to allow the dog off-leash, it gives the impression to the dog that their proximity is always their choice, and they may refuse to follow you when you put it on.

     A standard 4 or 6 foot leash is the best starter for basic training. It allows for a few wiggles, while keeping the dog close enough to show it what you would like it to do for that tasty treat!  It also helps keep a young puppy close enough to prevent them from getting themselves in trouble! 

     Longer leashes (10ft and more) are great for working on recalls ("Come When Called").  Even though many retractable leashes are available in these lengths I always recommend against them.  Firstly, one hard tug from a dog can dislodge the line and break the leash.  A dog that is already 20ft away and tugging hard enough to break the leash is not usually easy to catch.  The long lines are very thin, it allows them to coil neatly in the handheld part.  It makes then incredibly flimsy and able to be bitten through in less than a moment.  Also, the way the leashes are designed, there is always a slight tension on the line, which teaches dogs that it is a normal sensation to pull against the handler to move forward.  Unless you are training your dog to pull you on Rollerblades (and attach the line to a harness of course) this walking is undesirable, and counter-productive to teaching the "Heel" position.

Peanut uses a 5ft leash for his loose leash walking exercises.

      There are other less frequented options as well.  Leashes are also available in 6 inch - 2 foot lengths.  These shorter leashes are often called "Pull-Tabs" or "Traffic Leads".  I have seen people mistakenly grab these short leads intending to use them to teach "Heeling" nice and close to the handler.  It very rarely is successful however.  The dog must learn to "Heel" first, then a shorter line can be used- otherwise the dog is just constantly pulling and learns to drag you around and choke itself whenever it is on leash.



     When used properly, these shorter lines are used with collar conditioning for pressure collars to proof the work done with new distractions present, under the guidance of a trainer. 

     Happy walking!